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Vintage Name Variety Publication Reviewer Score More...
White - Sparkling

1996 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année

Champagne Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A fine, lemon gold hue, and a very tight and sparse bead. Wonderful nose, brimming with potential. Very well defined and taut and clean, just a little nutty character. Fresh, limpid, gentle but very persistent mousse couples very nicely with firm acidity and a very broad palate showing some very early mature character. Delicious potential. The most indrawn, most tightly coiled of these wines, but so lovely, and just brimming with great potential. 18.5+ points
White

2005 Château Brown Blanc

Pessac-Léognan Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
The nose remains rich and pungent, although it has obviously developed during the eight months since I last tasted it at the chateau. There is still a huge pile of character here, at first difficult to place, until I realise it has that classic, in-your-face, musky Sauvignon Blanc aroma of cat's you-know-what, and yes there is even a little gooseberry bush here too. It has clearly moved on from the green, nettly face it was showing last year. But it is still a complex wine, with notes of greengage, wet vegetation, still a little nettle I suppose, with citrus fruits and yellow capsicum. Obviously this is very Sauvignon-dominated at the moment, although I would think the Semillon, which makes up 35% of the blend, will show its face with time. The palate is rounded and fresh, with a little body and texture, all wrapped up in the incisive, fresh Sauvignon character which mirrors may of the features found on the nose. These carry through onto the finish, which is firm and grippy, with a biting structure. A really nice wine, showing plenty of potential, and which will benefit greatly from being left alone in the cellar for a year or two I think. 17.5+ points
White - Sweet/Dessert

1997 Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon Harmonie St. Aubin

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A shimmering, deep, yellow-gold colour when poured, a vibrant hue which suggests this wine has much in store. Indeed it does; although the nose starts off dominated by a high-toned volatility which swamps all other aromas, there soon emerges notes of botrytis with apples and pears following behind, a charming, scented array which is less exuberant than I remember, but no less fine. The palate has a pure and well defined character, which builds in intensity through the midpalate as does the texture, starting off light-footed and elegantly delineated which fits with my mental picture of the wine from when I last tasted it, in 2002, but soon opening out to reveal a more plush, opulent and dense consistency. There are fleeting nuances of caramel, but it retains a freshness like the bite of a crisp apple which gives it a lot of appeal. Overall, this is a very complete, beautifully composed wine which has proved itself yet again to be fabulous drinking and also great value for money. This was my last bottle I am afraid, but I suppose that is all the more reason to visit Domaine Cady next time I am in the Loire. 17 points
Red

2002 Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo

Cabernet Franc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
An appealing, lifted nose here, with red fruits and a floral, mineral element. The palate has an elegant composition, quite well defined, without too much weight. In truth I am not sure this is showing too well today, it has all the lifted elegance that I might expect from Clos de l'Echo, definition, freshness and acidity, but none of the substance. It finishes a little short but it is all nicely integrated and subtle. I think this has the potential to do well in the cellar, but would like to retaste to be sure. Thus my score is very non-committal. (16-17.5+) points
Red

2004 Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo

Cabernet Franc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
Again, this wine isn't showing too favourably today. It has a fairly light colour and plenty of freshness and lift, but unlike the 2002 which is so nicely composed, this comes across as a little coarse on the palate. A little hard, ungiving, tannic, without the texture or fruit to compensate or clothe these criticisms. Again, I will have to reserve judgement, although I would certainly place it as inferior to the 2002. (15-16.5+) points
Red

1999 Couly-Dutheil Chinon Cuvée Crescendo Clos de l'Echo

Cabernet Franc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
This has fruit. After the preceding two wines it is a pleasure. There is also quite noticeable oak apparent on the nose, and to be critical the wine does seem a touch attenuated. On the palate, the fruit and substance just isn't there, and I don't think it has the depth or structure to cope with the oak here. Other vintages have certainly been more successful than this. 15.5 points
White

2006 Couly-Dutheil Chinon Les Chanteaux

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
An appealing nose, fresh white fruits here, rather forceful, deep and rounded in character. Full of flavour on the palate. Lots of depth, quite stony, all packaged very nicely. There is good style here. 16 points
White - Sweet/Dessert

2003 Couly-Dutheil Vin de Table Français L'Interdit de Couly-Dutheil

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
The result of harvesting Chenin Blanc in two tries, the second of which was as late as December, producing a sweet wine with 100 g/l of residual sugar. The local appellations don't allow for this, of course, hence it is bottled as a vin de table and labelled Interdit ("forbidden"). Not a particularly exuberant nose, but there are some notes of botrytis present. It has a rather light, lifted character. It does not have a great deal of concentration in truth. It has some appeal, is certainly clean and of some character, but in all honesty I find it an interesting curiosity rather than a wine of high merit. 15 points
White - Off-dry

1999 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese

Nahe more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A lovely, vibrant hue, firmly in the green part of the spectrum. Lots of plump fruit on the nose, a little nuance of lychee and star fruit, with a subtle mineral vein behind. Very fresh but fleshy and a little creamy even, certainly coming through on the midpalate there is a note of fresh cream swirled with green fruits. Lovely acidity giving it a clean, balanced poise. Fairly delicious, minerally, still quite primary, with plenty of potential. 17.5+ points
White

2002 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett

Nahe more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A green tinge here. Delicately mineral and stony, fresh, and with some forceful lime fruit. This is similarly forceful on the palate, which has a firm, full and ripe character. Not really racy, but it has a full, voluptuous Nahe style. Grippy, limey, with notes of passion fruit and kiwi, and a tingly mineral character following on nicely from the nose. Almost savoury on the finish though. Yum. I think this will develop nicely in time. 17+ points
White - Sweet/Dessert

2001 Château Filhot

Sauternes Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
An attractive straw-lemon hue, bright and vibrant but perhaps not the depth that I seem to recall in some other wines of this vintage. At present the nose is just delightful, full of rock dust and orange peel, talcum and smoke, flower petals and fragrant rose water. The palate has plenty of density, a creamy and rounded nature despite a rather light texture, and a great purity around that rock dust character again. Quite a complete, elegant, vivacious style through the midpalate with nuances of citrus fruit, bitter lemon, ripe melon and crystalline pineapple. A simply gorgeous wine, although it shows little in the way of botrytis for such a great vintage, and yet it charms in other ways. But when the beautiful aromatics fade, will there be sufficient left behind? Not destined to be great I think, but I think this should still be very good indeed. 17.5+ points
White - Sparkling

NV Gratien & Meyer Crémant de Loire Brut

White Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A pale lemon-gold hue, almost a non-existent bead, but a fresh and charming citrusy nose laden with chalky, mineral elements. A clean, dry and quite crisp palate, with refreshing apple-citrus character and just a bare hint of cream to the texture. Plenty of joyful mousse to fill the mouth. A nice style. 16+ points
White - Sparkling

NV Gratien & Meyer Saumur Brut

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A pale lemon-gold hue. A massively plentiful bead on inspection, and a bright, clean nose of apple and lemons. Vibrant acidity on the palate, firm and chalky, with a firm mousse. This is very typical of the appellation and delightfully unfussy to drink. Good. 16 points
White - Sparkling

1996 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Millésimé

Champagne Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A fine straw-gold hue, with an equally fine and delicate bead. The nose is just lovely, elegant and seemingly creamy, with brioche and nutty character. There is a great minerality, with fine evolution showing here. The fresh and crisp mousse is supported by a creamy and broad palate of intensely expressed flavours, nutty and slightly mushroomy, but still with a fine, citrus precision. This is lovely now, but has the structure to go on for years yet, rather like the wine's finish. Excellent. 18.5+ points
White - Sparkling

NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve Mise en Cave 1997

Champagne Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A non-vintage cuvée blended and cellared by Daniel Thibault in 1997, and based largely on the 1996 vintage. A moderately deep gold hue, with a fair bead. The nose has advanced considerably since my previous tasting (excepting some faulty bottles I experienced), with lots of walnut, honey and brioche character now evident. The palate is full and creamy, with a supple composition carrying along notes of minerals and nuts, with a bitter bite curiously reminiscent of the taste of the papery casing of pistachio nuts. Lovely structure, rather showy, although to be critical not the focus or delineation of a great Champagne, and a little short on the finish. But lovely just the same, and always great value. 17 points
Red

2004 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques

Gamay more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
Quite a rich colour, but it is not overdone or opaque, merely dense and regal. Initially it is very fruit forward and simple on the nose, but this is a wine that certainly benefits from an hour or two of air contact, as it is after this period of time that the wine really begins to show why so many are warming to Castelnau's techniques in Beaujolais. The aromas intensify and morph into a deep, characterful, slightly wild array with notes of tobacco, liquorice and dark brooding fruit, with a very faint sliver of green earthiness behind. Then there are notes of coffee and nutty toffee, and an opulent honeyed, hot baked biscuits complexity which may be oak related. The palate has a lovely texture, first lean but then fleshing out a little to a rounded but firm composition, a little pepper, with dark fruits and still a lick of oak. Deliciously firm and dry, structured, outgoing but not overly flattering or easy. For Beaujolais it has a very serious disposition, and as I drank this in the cellar, whilst stacking away recent acquisitions, I thought to myself that this deep, earthy and complex wine seemed much more like a Pinot Noir from a little further north in Burgundy than a Gamay. With its soft tannins and composed nature it is totally ready to drink now, although it is sure to improve for a few years yet. Very good indeed. 17+ points
White - Sparkling

1995 Lanson Champagne Gold Label Brut

Champagne Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
Another pale, lemon-straw, but slightly golden colour with a sparse, fine bead. The nose here is marked by cinder toffee and praline, with a little mushroom and seashell minerality and a nuance of autolysis. The palate is really quite elegant, fresh but edged with toffee, praline and toast, another forcefully flavoured wine with lots of complex roasted fruits coming in through the midpalate, and also a slightly confected edge here. Appealing though, quite typical firm acidity, still lots of potential for the cellar here. Very enjoyable. (17-17.5+) points
White - Sparkling

1996 Lanson Champagne Gold Label Brut

Champagne Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
The first bottle was corked, which was disappointing. The second, fortunately, was sound. A soft, golden hue with a fine bead, very bright on the nose, with some evolving deep and brioche-like aromas alongside more herbal freshness. Fine and full on the palate, with a more creamy presence than I recall from my CIB tasting last year, although there is still very firm acidity; this remains very youthful, showing a lot of naked structure, and still needs many years. But I have bumped the score up a not inconsiderable notch. 17.5+ points
Red

2004 Château Laulan Ducos

Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
The fruit goes crunch, crunch, crunch when this wine is first poured into the glass. It starts off with a crisp, blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, with a similarly fresh and light palate, but it soon fleshes out through the midpalate to give a wine full of fruit but with an appealing although moderate impact and light texture. With a little more time in the glass it hunkers down, leaving a very firm, classically styled, slightly hard claret imbued with a little twiggy wood, which is a great food wine. I think this is how this wine will ultimately perform in the future. Very nice for the vintage. 15.5+ points
Red

2005 Château Laulan Ducos

Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A deep, glossy but dense hue, and an array of pure and spicy aromas are released from the glass, a melange of liquorice and cassis fruit backed up by smoky cherry, sweetly composed but also serious and gritty. On the palate a similar purity comes across, carried by a rich texture underpinned by a fine grip. There are just piles of ripe tannins, within a core of lipsmacking savoury quality which carries through to the finish. Fresh and balanced, this is approachable now, but will certainly give yet more pleasure in a few years time. Excellent potential. 17+ points
White - Sparkling

1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

Champagne Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A pale straw hue, with a very fine bead, although it is very persistent. The nose gives little rounded nuances of nuts and cream, specifically almonds, with a smoky, roasted white meat character which sounds really strange, but it was a rich and attractive aroma. It has certainly taken on a little more interest and complexity since my last tasting. The palate is full and broad, but more marked by its fine, precise purity. There are also some sweet fruits with a delicate cream, and a gently rounded mousse. Very good indeed, with lots of promise still. This one should stay in the cellar yet. 18.5+ points
White

1991 Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roche aux Moines

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
Not such a deep hue as the two other wines tasted today, the 1992 and 1993. Quite straight on the nose, which has a warm, Chenin funk to it, with notes of stone and straw, and there is certainly a cheesiness to it as well. The palate is rather light-footed and perhaps doesn't quite have the concentration of character that one might expect, although it has a really well polished texture and vinous, almost resinous texture that is devoid of sharp edges, but has a good body and grip beneath. Like the wines that follow there is a touch of rawness to it rather than finesse, but this is still a fascinating bottle, with an appealing, elegant detachment. Good. 16.5 points
White

1992 Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roche aux Moines

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
This wine has a fairly mature hue, and a complex nose, full of Chenin funk, notably straw and spiced and candied fruits, mineral charged, with a sweet, glycerine suggestion. There is plenty of structure, and quite a bit of grip especially on the finish. It has firmness, austerity, in fact it is a touch muscular and rather ungiving, and has a warm finish. It has a touch of honey and a full body, rather appealing vinosity. Although rather brutal there is a lot of detail and character here and this is one that should certainly appeal, to hardcore Chenin fans at least. 16+ points
White

1993 Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roche aux Moines

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
A very rich and golden hue on inspection. The nose is immediately reminiscent of a mature Quarts de Chaume, one of a similar age too. It has a suggestion of honey, and minerals, together with that difficult to describe woolly-cheesy character which is so typical of ageing Chenin, all presented in a very dry frame. This is the case on the palate, which has grip and structure, a dry character but with well rounded edges and a rich feel. There is also a little hint of oxidation, enough to add to the overall complexity without detracting from the style of the wine. Quite nicely held together, challenging wine, with a lot of charm if not elegance. And certainly both true to its appellation, and interesting to drink. Very good. 16.5 points
White - Sweet/Dessert

2006 Domaine de Montgilet (Victor et Vincent Lebreton) Coteaux de l'Aubance

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
August 2007
The home of Vincent and Victor Lebreton. This wine has a translucent, shimmering golden hue. The nose starts off in a gentle fashion, with honey and rosewater, thyme and herbal tea, dancing a light-footed jig, before revealing deeper nuances of smoke, citrus fruit and quince. Fresh and well defined on the palate, full of acidity, light and tender, with a supple palate. That streak of thyme is quite persistent. There is a little flourish of honey at the finish, but overall a very bright and breezy style. Good. 16.5+ points
  • Reviews: 41 /
  • Wines: 39

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