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Vintage Name Variety Publication Reviewer Score More...
Red

1996 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot

Syrah more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A rather dark, quite concentrated colour, with a little maturity. The nose is very giving at first, generously dishing out farmyardy, silage-type aromas which mark the wine as tainted by Brett. Interestingly, review of a note I wrote nearly three years ago reminds me of the aromas of sewage I found in that bottle, and I suspect that too was a Brett aroma. With time this blows off, leaving a closed down nose, very reticently giving a little brothy meat and even a strange blend of coffee and fresh cabbage. Very hard and unyielding on the palate, rather restrained, somewhat austere nature which may reflect the limestone and granite terroir, and is more reminiscent of a young claret than a Cornas, which is showing little in the way of character. But there is a firm, rather naked acidity and an envelope of tannins at the finish. Still needs time, I suspect five years at least (although I think I said that last time). 16.5+ points
Red

1996 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Red Rhone Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A moderate depth of colour, with a very attractive, maturing, ruby red hue. A little volatility at first, very high toned and leathery on the nose, but then giving a more complete array of aromas with appealing depth for what is always regarded as a weak vintage for Châteauneuf du Pape. Leathery, baked red fruit, sweet and mature, with little notes of bacon, the high toned character now part of a very appealing nose rather than sitting awkwardly apart from everything else. Elegant, rounded, complete entry, showing a little leanness and bareness of structure on the palate, but it has a very nice style. There is a little caramelised, sweet edge to the fruit, a quite broad acidic structure, but an appealing, marrowy texture. Impressive for the vintage, and even better than I remember it. 17 points
White - Sparkling

1990 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année

Champagne Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A rich, golden hue, much more so than the previous wine. And so much more open on the nose also, which has a rich, praline, nutty-oily character. Simply gorgeous. Firm and meaty, very much in the Bollinger style on the palate, nicely developed, and a huge presence. Rounded and full of texture, but there is a fine, carrying acidity as well. With a rich panoply of flavours spiced with apples and nuts, this is another simply lovely wine that is open for business right now. 18.5 points
White

2008 Gérard Boulay Sancerre La Comtesse Monts Damnés

Sauvignon Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A pale and clean hue in the glass, the aromatic profile of this wine is just delightful, perfumed and confident but also delicate and defined, with none of the raw varietal fruit character that you can find in so many examples of this variety. Appropriate ripeness here brings scents of peach and tangerine fruit to the fore, but these transient scents soon give way to a firmer, more solid set of aromas; stony, white fruit and fresh, lightly minerally elements. Pure, clear and intense on the palate, but with a delicious vein of citrus coming down the middle, which broadens out on the midpalate to give the wine a weight that really appeals. But around this there is a vibrant acid freshness, gentle and balanced rather than anything too aggressive, with a lightly pithy note coming through in the finish which reveals a deep, grainy substance. In terms of mineral content it seems deeply veined but not too intense, a chalky edge which adds a real seam of structure. Overall this is supple and balanced, a very engaging wine of some charm and yet also deep character and substance which surely reflects the wine's marly Kimmeridgian origins. 18 points
Red

2003 Château Brown

Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
CS 67%, M 30%, PV 3%. Dark, macerated cherry fruit on the nose, with a slightly pruney, raisiny feel to it. That's 2003 for you. Full, quite vibrant considering, but there is a predominant macerated, perhaps even stewed feel to it. Warm and firmly tannic finish typical of the vintage, and low acidity to complete the usual picture. Not my style. 14.5 points
Red

2004 Château Brown

Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
CS 55%, M 43%, PV 2%. A vibrant, fresh, red-blackcurrant fruit, with a little leafy-tobacco note. Fresh, balanced, youthful palate, this Mau/Derenoncourt wine is a marked contrast to the preceding vintage, although that might be said of many 2003/2004 comparisons. A little lean through the midpalate, not that unusual in this vintage, but it has good quality and is a well poised wine. Very good. 16.5+ points
Red

2005 Château Brown

Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
CS 60%, M 35%, PV 5%. The deep, ruby-purple hue of youth. Fabulous fruit here, crisp and crunchy yet dark and fully ripe blackcurrants, fine, lithe and poised, with some brooding tobacco notes. Nicely composed, creamy, quite primary, with a wonderful underpinning structure. Fine, ripe, charcoaly tannins on the finish. Quite delicious. 17+ points
White

2003 Château Brown Blanc

Pessac-Léognan Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
SB 70%, S 30%. A clear, pale gold. Smoky, stony, minerally character on the nose, with a little smoke too. Rounded, quite creamy, ripely textured, with a stony firmness and again a teasing little ripple of meringue. It has low acidity, the unfortunate hallmark of the vintage, but nevertheless has a good, grippy backbone. Better than I expected, but this is still plainly a 2003. 14 points
White

2004 Château Brown Blanc

Pessac-Léognan Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
SB 65%, S 35%. A paler gold this time, again minerally and nettly on the nose, with the suggestion of a creamy roundness. But there is also the suggestion of finesse here. Full style, a strong character, grippy-pithy in keeping with many other wines of the vintage that I have encountered. Firmly put together. A well structured, fresh wine with good acidity, but with overall a rather solid composition. I like it. 17 points
White

2005 Château Brown Blanc

Pessac-Léognan Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
SB 65%, S 35%. A definite step up here, this vintage displaying a vibrant, pungent nose, with plenty of green, nettly aromatics. Just a lovely style on the palate, rounded and creamy, firmly composed but showing more poise than the 2004, and a long, lovely array of flavour on the palate. Grip and style, and a well defined finish. Good length too. This is excellent. 17.5 points
Red

1996 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne

Syrah more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
An attractive, meaty-mature aroma from the bottle immediately it is opened, but when poured into the glass for tasting more awkward volatile notes dominate, with lots of ethyl acetate and vinyl-like aromas. But there is good Northern Rhône character, with a meaty, beefy note together with the sweet but restrained blackberry-bramble jelly note of Syrah fruit. The palate is rather firm, masculine perhaps, still a little abruptly presented rather than being a wine full of feminine wile. There is grip and structure, although perhaps with a rather transparent texture and lack of concentration of flavour, lending it a rather obvious backbone of alcohol. I think I am being very critical. Good wine, though. 16+ points
Red

2001 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Red Rhone Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A fine, cherry red hue. On the nose there are some dark, brooding fruits, smoky-roasted cherries, but otherwise this wine is giving little away at the moment. It has a great presence on the palate, with lots of weight and a firm, grippy, masculine tannic structure. Very decent acidity too. Richly endowed, youthful but withdrawn, with a composition bordering on monolithic, this wine needs time, but it was worthwhile taking this first look. 17.5+ points
Red

2005 Clos Fourtet

St. Émilion Grand Cru Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
Lots of ripe, creamy fruit on the nose here. Tasted alongside a number of other wines from the vintage, here again the wine has a wonderful presence on the palate, creamy yet precise and well defined. Dark fruits, ripe and approachable tannic structure beneath, well coated with fruit. Very robust wine, full of potential, could be truly excellent with time. 17.5+ points
Red

1996 Château Croizet-Bages

Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
An appealing colour here, a nice depth at the centre, fading a little at the rim, and certainly showing maturity. This comes through on the nose also, as it offers up fairly classic bloody iron notes that characterise ageing claret, peppered with little notes of spice and cumin. Quite lean on entry, showing the barest amount of flesh through the midpalate, but with a very nice character, and more than a lick of peppery tannin on the finish. Very traditional style which certainly holds some interest for me. Disappointing when viewed in the context of the vintage, but intrinsically fairly good, certainly drinkable, and should improve over the next 3-4 years. 15.5+ points
Red

1996 Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
Lovely mature colour here, plenty of depth, but with a mahogany tinge at the rim. Mature, meaty, spiced nose, with little notes of orange peel and beef. Fine texture on entry, gently coating the palate, revealing some real substance and extract towards the middle. Opens out to show some really fine secondary flavours, with great balance, Still showing a masculine backbone of tannin, but this sits beautifully with the texture and acidity. This is just fine for drinking now, although will last superbly in the cellar for another five years at the very least. 18+ points
White - Sweet/Dessert

1998 Domaine Philippe Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon Clos du Pavillon

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
My final bottle of this wine, sadly. It remains a deep, burnished orange-gold hue. The nose is so characteristic of this wine, again showing intense minerals, with a rocky-stony character, and plenty of botrytis giving a caramel-quince streak. The palate is undeniably rich, again full of botrytis, with a creamy-oily texture, fabulously hedonistic, low in acidity, yet focused and stylish. With a long, fading finish, this is really excellent. 17.5 points
White - Sparkling

1996 Gosset Champagne Brut Grand Millésime

Champagne Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
The second of a handful of bottles purchased at Perardel a few years ago, the first of which did not show well at all, its under-performance only emphasised by the glorious bottle tasted at the LIWSF last year. This one was showing better, I suspect at 100%. A fine, pale gold colour. A very sparse bead, almost non-existent, just a stream or two of the tiniest bubbles. Glorious aroma on the nose, of fresh hazelnut and toasty brioche. On the palate, similarly fine and intense flavours come through, with a very gentle but tightly coiled mousse carried along by fine, firm acidity. Just a little creamy edge to the feel on the palate, which shows some sparkling minerals alongside more nutty character. This is just fabulous, finishing with a desperately characterful, mineral infused length. Full of potential for further cellaring, I feel. 17.5+ points
Red

1989 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde

Syrah more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A dark colour, not showing obvious maturity. Rather sweetly gamey on the nose, with a furry, leathery dark yet really rather reserved character which is attractive but I can't help thinking that this is rather deficient in perfume. The same can be said of the palate, which has a very firm style, with a rather plump, rounded texture cut through by grippy, rather sooty tannins which give a strong backbone for the wine. This has a really nice concentration, but to be critical it is perhaps rather short on perfume and character. 17.5 points
White - Sweet/Dessert

1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont

Chenin Blanc more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A fascinating illustration of how a bottle is treated can affect the quality. Two bottles of this included in the tasting; this one the first, sourced from a UK merchant. It has a bright and shimmering yellow-gold hue, and a nose of powdered rocks, firmly mineral, smoky even, with a honey and lemon layer of fruit behind it all. What the palate offers is broad and well balanced; a fine layer of minerally, stony fruit set in a texture that is rounded and creamy, but clearly matched by the fine pervasive presence on the palate and a firm, somewhat peppery undercurrent of acidity. This shows very precise, well defined, rather firm structure with a nuance of melon-edged fruit, both components that suggest this will cellar well and show fine depth and complexity in the future. Impressive, with a very typical chalky, honeycomb style, and great potential. The second bottle was purchased at the domaine in 2003 and stored by me ever since, and it shows quite differently, with a fabulously intense golden hue, with a firm, deep, characterful nose that already hints at the great complexity and varied array of aromas and flavours that this wine will offer over the coming years. There is a profound, smoky, lemon-butter and thyme nose, with a firm minerality too, which is simply delightful. The palate has a similarly forthright structure, so much more defined and precise, with streamlined lemon and mineral acidity, carrying forward a fine array of musky, smoky, beeswax, straw and hay flavours. This is simply divine, I am slightly at a loss for words to describe its deep finesse. Lovely, delineated finish and considerable length. This should do well in the cellar for a decade, and perhaps much, much longer. 19+ points
Red

1996 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

Syrah more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A really attractive hue here, still plenty of pigment, just showing some appealing maturity, but good depth. And a lovely nose too, full of youthful potential, with bittersweet cherry fruit swirled in little notes of roasted meat, smouldering embers and even touch of rather atypical garrigue. Richly creamy on entry, with a firm presence of rather svelte tannins and fresh acidity, giving a lovely sense of extract, all combined to give a delicious depth and structure. Good cherry fruit too, but overall its the appealing texture and those almost roasted, ripe tannins that impress. There is a presence, a certainty of a fine future here that I find really persuasive, assisted by a decent albeit rather tannic length. Jaboulet has been criticised (perhaps rightly) in recent years for turning out lesser wines (and has been subsequently sold by the family), but it is clear to my palate that whenever the rot set in, it was certainly after the 1996 vintage. 18.5+ points
Red

2005 Château Joanin Bécot

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
Tasted with dinner at Chateau Thieuley. This has an obvious presence of sweet, ripe fruit on the nose, with a slightly hot feel to it, smoky and also a touch jammy I think. On the palate it seems simply huge; there is a wealth of rich fruit, with firm and ripe tannins which is all a little in-your-face. But there is good style here too; it has acidity which gives it an attractive lift, and it is all firmly cemented together. This is no loose and blowsy wine. This will appeal to many. 16+ points
White

1996 Josmeyer Gewurztraminer Hengst

Alsace Grand Cru Gewürztraminer more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
An unremarkable, pale golden hue. Very typical perfume on the nose, rose petals with plenty of bacon and a little lychee. Nice weight on entry, the acidity is rather low as is frequently the case with this variety, but there is a nice grip which gives a little structure, but more acids would have given a more appealing freshness too. Nevertheless it does have plenty of attractive character, including notes of bitter, mineral, orange peel and rose petal. Very good. 16.5 points
Red

2003 Château Le Preuil

Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A fairly deep hue, and quite a herbal nose, smoky, with some roasted berry fruit. On the palate it seems quite fresh, mid-weight, with a rather attractive style. There is quite a firm tannic backbone which is a mark of the vintage, but nevertheless it is approachable and pleasant to drink now. 15 points
Red

2004 Château Le Preuil

Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
Quite open on the nose, with some herbal tobacco. Fresh, mid-weight, quite attractive palate. The tannins are quite firm and dry, but there is a nice texture alongside. Fresh acidity. This has a good style and for a second wine is a good effort. Drink now. 15.5 points
Red

1996 Lindemans Pyrus

Coonawarra Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
December 2006
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec, this wine has a really deep, rich colour when poured, still with a dark, almost opaque core, and a mahogany-claret rim. Simply gorgeous nose, redolent of meat juices, beef stock and smoky caramelised-grilled meats all wrapped up in a tissue of sweet blackcurrant fruit. It's wines like this that make me wonder why I don't drink more from Australia; the wine for me has no sense of place, but what is in the glass is still absolutely delicious. Rich on entry and a fine, fleshy midpalate, although very fresh as well. Meaty, mature Cabernet-dominated character. Firm, masculine finish. Very good indeed, still no rush to drink this up, and there's one more bottle left in the cellar I think. 17.5+ points
  • Reviews: 62 /
  • Wines: 60

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