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Vintage Name Variety Publication Reviewer Score More...
Red

2007 Attila Gere Villány Grand Vin de Villány

Red Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
A blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, from the Kopár hillsides, Konkoly and Ördögárok vineyards, made in only the most favourable vintages. It has a dark and rich appearance in the glass, near-black at its core, with a cherry-claret rim. The nose is full of sweet and yet dusty fruit, well countered by the aromatic, violet-tinged perfume of the Cabernet Franc along with some more savoury, smoky, roast-meaty elements - oak-related, perhaps - that come with a little exposure to air. But more than anything it speaks of dark, primary, velvety fruit. Rich and creamy on entry, showing a great balanced structure underneath it though, with bright acidity keeping the wine fresh and crisp, and with a ripe and velvety yet savoury and detached seam of tannins alongside. The fruit here has a dense and ripe character despite the firm composure of the palate's structure. A very solid wine with a lot of reserve, slowly rolling into a long and lingering, softly creamed finish; this currently seems very fruit-orientated and straightforward, although it has a very composed, serious frame to it. It needs time. 17.5 points
Red

2007 Castello Banfi Excelsus

Sant' Antimo Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
A nice depth of colour. Rather a brawny, pastille-like character on the nose, sweet and intense but there is substance behind it as well. Nevertheless it has an attractive character on the palate, where the fruit comes across as much more savoury and spicy-grippy than the nose suggested. It has a substantial presence, with piles of brawny grip through the middle, but with a good balance of this element with the acids and rather elegant if also youthful texture. Good and grippy on the finish. Some attractive points here. 16 points
Red

2004 Château Batailley

Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
A good colour here, although showing a rather dusty hint of maturity. An appealing nose, perfumed and full of attractive and defining elements including graphite and pencil shavings. Certainly defined and attractive. The palate starts off rather dry and reserved, with a soft and open layer of maturing dusty fruit sitting above - and fairly detached from - the structural elements underneath. Between them there lies a void, a little hollow note at its core. There are certainly positive notes here but I think at this stage there was still room for improvement at Batailley - and it does show. 14.5 points
Red

2008 J.M. Boillot Beaune 1er Cru Epenottes

Pinot Noir more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
An attractively fresh red hue with appropriate concentration. The nose has a very smoky character, the fruit profile moving into a darker part of the spectrum, alongside notes of mushroom and slightly stewed, slightly chocolatey red fruits. A nice substance on entry, with a chalky-stony Beaune character, but with some weight coming behind it as well. Good sappy finish. There are certainly some attractive points here. This has some potential. 15.5 points
Red

2005 Château Brown

Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
This still has a very youthful hue, although with some dark and claretty-red tones to it. Aromatically there is a touch of charcoal behind the fruit, although on the palate the latter of these elements shows through strongest. Underneath it all a fine grip, and there is a lovely richness to its substance. Very fine and, in keeping with the high quality of the vintage, still in need of much cellar time. Tasted at Au Bonheur du Palais. 17 points
White

2009 Château Brown Blanc

Pessac-Léognan Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
This has plenty of creamy-pithy fruit on the nose, showing a little ripe citrus sweetness but always with a firm, pithy-zesty element coming in behind it. A good substance in the mouth, showing a solid grip, bold and firm, but livened up by lovely zesty quality to the fruit and very appealing acidity. A lovely effort. Tasted at Au Bonheur du Palais. 17 points
Red

2008 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec

Mendoza more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Fermented in steel, then about 14 months in oak. Very sweet and expressive fruit on the nose, suggestive of crushed berry fruit with a velvety surface but with plenty of fresh, crystalline elements beneath. Rather an appealing palate, ripe but sensitively composed, not over the top in terms of texture, sweet and perfumed fruit but with a gentle attack, backed up by ripe tannins and gentle acidity. Nice savoury elements coming in as well. Very nicely done. 15.5 points
Red

2007 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Altamira Nicasia Vineyard

Mendoza more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Fermented and raised in barriques for about 24 months. A single vineyard wine. A fine and very pure expression of fruit on the nose, creamy but with a lovely definition. On the palate it shows a remarkable feshness, quite a velvety style of fruit but underpinned and lifted by a bright and stony character. Lovely ripe tannins, quite svelte in their character, and which sit very well with the fine acids and fruit. At the finish, more grip apparent. A very appealing wine with lots of elegant substance here. 17.5 points
Red

2007 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Catena Alta

Mendoza more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Fermented part in barrique, part in steel, then about 18 months in barrique. Certainly a more glossy and dense hue here, although still with a very bright tone to it. Dense berry fruits on the surface of the nose. There is a richness behind it, a little tinge of dark chocolate which may be oak-related, but it doesn't domainte or distract. In the mouth a very elegant and poised wine, quite detached and aloof but not austere, grippy with a firm core of straight tannins carrying along a very elegant and slightly velvety layer of fruit. This has style and appeal. 17 points
White - Sweet/Dessert

2005 Château Climens

Barsac Sémillon more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Served blind. This has an intense and golden hue, loaded with botrytis, with rich, concentrated, honey and beeswax elements on the nose. The palate is just amazing it has a huge richness of character, all super-concentrated, with a huge grip underpinning it all. It comes across as very bold and solid, and underneath all this exuberant richness I find the acidity struggles, in fact it hardly shows its face at all. I was amazed to see this was a Barsac, never mind Climens itself. Clearly a great effort but rather awkward at the moment, and I hope time in bottle brings a better, fresher balance out of it. A rather hedged and tentative score with that in mind. Tasted after dinner at Chateau Brown. (16-17?) points
Red

2008 Clos Dubreuil

St. Émilion Grand Cru Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
This is a wine made by Benoit Trocard, and the method is certainly individual. The vineyard is on the St Emilion plateau, with a thin top layer of soil over the bedrock, the vines 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. The fruit was harvested on October 5th, and spends ten days soaking at 0ºC, this very low temperature maintained by the regular addition of dry ice. Then there is a temperature-regulated fermentation in barrel, and once completed the wine remains in the barrel for the élevage, during which it is rolled six times every day. The wine's appearance is dark and glossy. with lots of oak apparent on the nose. Rather brawny super-ripe fruit, with a creamy polish to the texture in the mouth, and an intense plum character. Good grip and acid underneath it all, and what is best described as a long and powerful, tannic finish. The alcohol is 14.5%. A wine with an unusual story to tell, but judging by what is in the glass it is a good story. Tasted over dinner at Chateau Brown. 17 points
Red

1945 Château La Conseillante

Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
A négociant bottling. It is an honour to taste this as I know stocks of old vintages at the chateau are slim. It has a remarkable colour, a polished brick-red hue, and yet there is a fine creamy density to it, fading out to a more golden hue at the rim, and yet the whole wine seems quite opaque. It has an amazing nose, full of toast, liquorice, Marmite of all things, and more commonplace nuances including black tea. It is intense, sweet, and not at all delicate or ethereal as we might expect such an aged wine to be, in that it has real aromatic impact. And, in keeping with this, there is also incredible substance on the palate. It has a beautiful composition for any wine, never mind one long past its sixtieth birthday. This continues on along the palate which maintains its broad, gentle sweetness, and its fine balance, with a freshness to it that is beguiling. In the finish it seems long and even a touch honeyed here. Scoring such wines seems a bit silly, but this was a source of great pleasure, so I will! It would be fascinating to taste a chateau-bottled example as well. 18.5 points
Red

1990 Château La Conseillante

Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Harvested at 53 hl/ha, and 21 years later it is poured from magnum. We have moved on ten years here, and there is a much more mature appearance, the wine showing a fading brick-red hue with a wide and soft rim. There is a beautiful nose to it, all very evolved and open, rather relaxed, with nuances of black olives, gravel and rust. Continuing on, the palate is very resolved, gently composed, soft and receptive to examination. There is no tannin here but there is some grip running through the wine, and appealingly fresh acidity too. This is elegant, and although there is a little medicinal twist to it in the palate which doesn't wholly appeal, I keep coming back to it for that ethereal aromatic profile. And on the palate, the sweet substance, so toothsome and polished, also draws me back. Lovely wine. 17.5 points
Red

2000 Château La Conseillante

Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
An attractive fading hue here, showing the additional maturity within. It has a layer of supple and maturing fruit on the nose, sweet and perfumed, with little nuances of leather and a touch of black bean. It feels just a little warm as well. Rather broad on the palate, with a supple character as suggested aromatically, with a polished and firm substance and admittedly there is a lightly gamey feel here as well. Evolving complexities reminiscent of black bean and black tea bring some genuine pleasure here, but in terms of its presence in the mouth it still feels rather disparate and unready, despite having eleven years under its belt already. This is still in need of cellar time I think. 17 points
Red

2005 Château La Conseillante

Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
This bottle certainly generated some discussion. In terms of appearance it still looks youthful, as it should, but alongside the vibrant red pigment it also has a lightly dusty edge in keeping with its time in bottle. And yet there is considerable evolution on the nose here, which shows unusual nuances of leather and orange peel. It doesn't seem quite right, with nuances of high-toned volatility too. Underneath these notes there are some attractive fruit elements, especially roasted plum, but also a surprisingly gamey edge. A second bottle was requested and opened. Thus this tasting note is disadvantaged as these wines really need more air to show their best. The second bottle does display more of that gamey character, although it is certainly toned down in comparison. And the palate has a more supple and polished feel to it. This is definitely more composed than the first also. Indeed, returning to it, it is starting to show some a more complex seam as it opens up, in quite an exciting fashion. It is aggressively awkward right now, but I think there is great potential here (although I am persisting with a hedged score). But do not be tempted to open any bottles you may have to see for yourself at the moment. (17.5-18.) points
Red

2009 Château La Conseillante

Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Harvested at 39.5 hl/ha. A freshly drawn sample. Having just tasted the 2010 barrel sample, it is clear that 2009 has a much darker fruit style than that more recent vintage. There are notes of black plum here, at first with a confit twist although on returning to the wine I don't see that again. It has a very polished, creamy and welcoming style, very broad and seductive in terms of its composition. And yet, despite this near-voluptuous character, it remains so complete and elegant. There is lovely substance to it, the fruits backed up by appropriate weight, and there is some grip underneath, but it is well hidden in this vintage. And there is good acidity too. A harmonious but certainly very rich wine, in keeping with the character of the vintage. (18-19) points
White

2009 Zoltán Demeter Furmint Tokaji Birtokbor

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Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
An unusual synthetic closure here, a multi-part piece made by Guala. The wine is clear with a light golden hue, and the nose is loaded with fruit salad, with notes of pear, apple, white grape and even a twist of tangerine. Fresh but rather fat on the palate, showing the same style through the middle with a nice substance and citrus and pear fruit substance at its core, with a bright and textured build. Appealing but rather soft and straightforward, and without a good frame of acidity to provide structure. There is a little grip to it. Overall this is relaxed and unfussy. 14 points
White

2007 Zoltán Demeter Furmint Tokaji Kakas

more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Bottle number 42 of 1300. From a single vineyard. The colour here is pale gold, suggesting nothing of the enticing aromatic qualities found on the nose. There is vibrant yet honeyed orange citrus fruit character here, expressive and clean, polished down with notes of lemon zest and face cream, and a crumbling-stone minerality. In the mouth it has a beautiful purity and presence, with a crisp and slightly fleshy substance, very finely balanced by fresh acidity and more than a hint of citrusy, pithy grip. Great body and verve here, with a lovely richness very well framed by grip and acid. 17.5 points
White

2007 Zoltán Demeter Furmint Tokaji Lapis

more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Bottle number 1212 of 1550. The third in this trio of single-vineyard Furmint cuvées, the 2007 Lapis has a polished golden hue, and the suggestion of a greater softness than some of the other wines on the nose, conveyed by a sense of spicy, honeyed sweetness running alongside the peach and citrus fruit. There is a gentle purity to it, and yet it is also laced with more exotic nuances redolent of vanilla, minerals, orange-blossom honey and candle wax. The palate begins with this welcoming array of fruit, but also quickly declares a well-balanced structured underpinning it all, with a very appropriate presence for the fruit through the middle of the wine. It holds a lovely substance on the midpalate, bold and polished, yet with perfumed aromas, and lively acidity. Is there a little twist of botrytis running through this wine too? Grippy and gritty through into the finish of the wine, where more of the structure shows, keeping the wine firm and composed to the very end. It lingers for quite some time too. In this line up of 2007 Furmints this is without doubt my favourite. Delicious wine. 18 points
White

2007 Zoltán Demeter Furmint Tokaji Veres

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Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Bottle number 515 of 1633. A fairly rich golden hue here, and a very expressive, accessible nose to match. It is loaded with fruit, especially sweet stone fruit, most redolent of golden peach flesh, twisted with biting, pithy-punchy citrus fruit character. The orange nuances are swirled with creamy substance. On the palate, a fabulously cool but biting, integrated style, the orange fruit taking on a rather challenging, firm, structured and grippy character here, the fruit a little sour yet mouth-wateringly appealing. Just a little hint of barley water in the texture, too. A sappy, lively and charming wine, the biting fruit character countered by a minerally acidity. And there are soft nuances of lemon zest alongside. Very good indeed. 17 points
White

2007 Zoltán Demeter Hárslevelu Szerelmi

Tokaji more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Bottle number 552 of 1246. From a single vineyard. The colour has a gentle richness. On the nose there is certainly complexity, the aromatic characteristics fleeting and enticing, and yet somehow quite solid and reserved. There are elements of honeyed golden fruit which rather remind me of Richard Leroy's Les Noëls de Montbenault, perhaps there is some oak influence here still bringing this feeling, with little undertones of ginger cake, baked orange fruit and a savoury, polished finish. In the mouth all of these elements are swirled together in a complex melange of flavours but, as the nose suggested, backed up by a grippy, dry and forceful element that can only be related to the oak. There is also a little trace of tangible alcohol here at times, adding to the rawness of the mouthfeel, with the wine declaring 14.5%. It has a lovely weight to it though. I would have to give this time to get true pleasure from it, but I suspect it could be magnificent. 17.5 points
White - Sweet/Dessert

2008 Zoltán Demeter Tokaji Anett Sárga Muskotály

Furmint Blend, Furmint more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Number 551 of 581 half-bottles. In the glass this has an attractive, rich but bright golden hue. It is very aromatic and perfumed as we would expect from any strain of Muscat, but with a dense, golden and polished character rather than anything too flashy or floral. There follows a lovely presence in the mouth, just dripping with sweet fruit with a sense of citrus zest, orange blossom and blood oranges too. It is backed up by a lovely weight, not savoury but certainly adding a welcome note of restraint, a solid and mealy character counterbalancing the bright and vibrant fruit. There is a little sourness to the fruit which I like, a gentle grip, and a moderate acidity sitting against that rich layer of residual sugar. This is delicious stuff, with a lovely creamy edge of great purity, and it is incredibly long too, fleeting in and out on the palate for minutes. 17.5 points
White - Sweet/Dessert

2008 Zoltán Demeter Tokaji Oszhegy Sárga Muskotály

Furmint Blend, Furmint more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
Bottle number 399 of 597. From a single vineyard. Sealed with Vino-Lok. Rather a paler hue than some of Zoltán's other wines, and the aromatic profile is fairly distinctive as well, showing a broad array of perfumed characteristics that are eternally associated with Muscat. There is a sweet orange blossom character blended with the freshly pulped flesh of lychees, with notes of rose petal very reminiscent of sweet Turkish delight, along with elements of candied pear. Despite this exuberant character on the nose it has a dry yet fleshy style on the palate, albeit pervaded by many of the aromatic elements already noted. Nicely balanced acidity to counter this fleshy and feminine substance, leading to a finish showing some bitter, Seville orange grip. Certainly a well fashioned wine, appealing, but the flavour profile really needs something savoury or of greater substance to make this wine truly sing. 16 points
Rosť

2009 Château d'Esclans Côtes de Provence

Rosé Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
This is part-vinified in oak (20%), the rest in stainless steel. A much paler hue here, and the aromatics seem reserved in keeping with this, showing a very clean character with a pebbly note rather than a stony solidity, the fruit difficult to pin down but subtle white peach is perhaps the best I can come up with. The palate shows a fine if rather solid substance at first, although it does soften a little with time revealing a gentle polish. The fruit remains subtle, peachy, perhaps a hint of tangerine too. Good sappy-grippy finish. Nice. Happily the oak remains totally hidden. 16 points
Rosť

2008 Château d'Esclans Côtes de Provence Garrus

Rosé Blend more

Winedoctor

, Chris Kissack
March 2011
From 80-year old vines. Like Les Clans this wine shows more oak than anything else on the nose, although here there is at least a little peachy-zesty citrus fruit battling to come out from beneath the crunchy golden oak. The palate also shows an admirably fresh substance, albeit with a firm layer of oak laid over the top. There is nice acidity and overall I do admire the wines presence in the mouth which takes on a broad, almost creamy and certainly mouth-watering texture. But then in the finish the crunch of the oak is heard once more. There is more here than in Les Clans for sure, but I still find the focus is too far from the fruit. 13.5 points
  • Reviews: 54 /
  • Wines: 54

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