A very fine wine, but as a Wendouree it brought to mind the following lines from John Hiatt:
'He said, "Girl you're a beauty like I've never witnessed,
And I've seen the Northern Lights dance on air
But I've felt the cold that can follow the first kiss
And there's not enough heat in the fires burning there".'
This has a soft inner glow, not an Icey Blue Heart. But despite the fine lines and beautiful fruit, it never quite fires as usual for a Wendouree and particularly this inimitable blend.
A touch more faded on the rim than expected for six years, the nose shows poached strawberries, warm spices, oak dusting, dried meat hints. A study in subtlety.
The palate is all style. Filigreed tannin, medium body and medium intense red fruits. It speaks to the refinements made over the last 10-15 years that have made for better, more accessible wines without sacrificing their individuality or sense of place. For all its class, this doesn't quite possess the depth or personality of those other years (esp 2012, 2013, 2019, or from an earlier period, 1998, 2004, 2006 etc). It's a more bespoke wine than the 2003 S/Mbc tasted alongside it, but the latter etched itself into the senses with its darker, deeper, more complex character (and not least that it rose above an unforgiving hot vintage).
Mindful of comparing cool year 'apples' with hot year 'oranges', I held over 2/3s to assess the 2017 in its own right the next evening. With nearly all Wendourees, a day to breathe up usually sees the the inner strong characters emerge and muscle up (eg, see NTs for the 2015 and 2016 S/Mbcs). But not this time. The characteristic jube gum (Malbec) and acid shot remained strangely elusive, as did the iron filings and coal dust.
The Wendouree 2017s attracted mixed reviews on release, mostly ill-founded for mine. The Shiraz, Cab Malbec and three-way Shiraz/Cab/Malbec Pressings are each in their own way terrific. The Shiraz Malbec seems similar to the Shiraz Mataro from the year. As a self-confessed Wendoureephile, I enjoyed it, but the spark was missing. A perfectly good wine, albeit not A Perfectly Good Guitar.