This strikes me as representing the mid-way point between the ‘old Wendouree’ and the new. The cool long 2002 and mild undervalued 2004 vintages presaged the more refined wines seen in the 2010s on (including the elegantly powerful 2009). The hot, unforgiving 2003 season shapes what the winemaking team could work with it, but the absence of astringent tannins, jaded overripe characters (raisins) and heat (it’s 13.2%) tells you they picked at the right time.
Brick rim to faded red, then dark core. Once you let it breathe (an hour or so) and work through the secondary walnut, caraway seeds and aniseed, surprisingly fresh fruits appear - chopped dark cherries, dark plums, blackberries - then a sprinkle of brick dust. Distinctly Wendouree that tastes 20 years old plus, yes, but gnarly or burly, no.
Palate continues the theme. Sinewy tannins snake their way through more cherry, plum, raspberry. There’s an understated darker, dry vintage port note too, reminiscent of the 03 Shiraz and older Wendouree - it complements, not dominates the other characters. Hints of beef brisket, or is that my belly saying feed me brisket with this wine? Only upper medium bodied at most that carries itself well. No heat, no edges, no teacher, but guru, yes (apologies to Van Morrison).
I’ve ranked it just below CT Outstanding, mainly relative to scores for the more prodigious vintages of this wine (2004, 2012, 2013, 2019).
The 2003 Sth Australian vintage is one at this point I’d be wary of, but this is an exception. I searched for signs of decline but found none. It’s still vibrant. The road may not go on forever but the party has yet to end (thanks Robert Earl Keen).
