Birthday boy (One of a trio!) Kelvin brought this aged and very special Barolo along to our lunch - It was one of my favourites of all 12 we had.
Such an expressive nose, lots of luscious blackfruit. The classical black tea notes were there, such fragrance.
I guessed - Nebiollo, Barolo. Perhaps 20 years. When unveiled, all of us were super impressed how young this drank.
Still in a dark ruby red hue, with only a small clear rim. The nose developed to reveal some vanilla and cedar too, I simply loved the aromatics.
Medium-full bodied, beautiful and lifting minerality and that classical M+ acidity. Very refined tannins and a long floral finish as well.
Roberto Voerzio is the original ‘modernist’ Barolo estate.
He is based at La Morra, and the journey all started in the 1980s with only 5 hectares. He makes tiny quantities from a number of top vineyards (La Serra, Rocche dell’Annunziata, Cerequio, Fossati Case Nere, Sarmassa), 60 percent of which have been planted at high density levels.
In contrast, at the winery .. Roberto is relatively traditional, ageing in a combination of small and increasingly large botti since 2008 too.
Roberto Voerzio went out on his own in 1986, and was inspired by the great wines of Burgundy.
He has now 35 hectares of vines, which is quite a lot for Piemonte. 15 are his own and 20 are rented.
All are in La Morra, save one – Sarmassa – which is in Barolo.
There are 3 very distinctive features of Voerzio’s vineyards:
1st - Planted at high density. 3200 vines per hectare is normal for the region, but he’s packing in 8-10,000 vines per hectare.
2nd - Intense and obsessive control of yield.Nebbiolo in the Langhe is normally cropped at 4 kg per plant. He is looking for 500 g per plant (for Barolo) or 700 g/plant for his other wines.
3rd - All his vines are hail netted, so they are quite easy to spot!
Tang Room, PJ, Malaysia
27th Dec 2023