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Delyap's Killer '99 Cabathon

An unnamed, very hospitable restaurant

Tasted October 9, 2004 by Blair Curtis with 2,062 views

Introduction

Well a bunch of us gathered in response to a most generous invitiation from Delbert ("Delyap"). Delbert wanted to have a tasting and check in on some great 1999 California Cabs (and a couple that were mostly Cab) from his cellar. Present were: me, Delyap and his lovely date, Thomas (aka. "Tommy 'O"), Peter, Kirk, and Ray Signorello of the eponymous Napa winery. (Hmmm, I think I may have missed someone.)

Anyways, we started with two great Champagnes, then moved on to the '99s plus an '85 for contrast. And then we finished with 2 Ports and a Sauternes. Whew - nice night!

Flight 1 - Brilliant Bubblies (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
1988 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
93 points
Toasty brioche nose. On the palate, tight and lemony with solid acidity. Steely, pure and clean - very bright. Smooth mousse with tiny bubbles and fine finish. Feels and looks (lighter color) much younger than the '85 Salon paired with it.
White - Sparkling
1985 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
95 points
More evolved golden hue. On the nose, yeast, butterscotch, walnuts and sherry. Very complex and distinctive - maybe a love it or hate it thing (I loved it). On the palate, heavier and yeastier than the '88 Krug. Earthy with tons of minerals. Bread dough. A touch of funk and maybe some porcini mushroom woodsiness. Tart finish. Feels more mature and has more character at this juncture than does the '88 Krug.

Flight 2 - Killer Cabs (9 notes)

Red
1999 BOND Matriarch USA, California, Napa Valley
89 points
Surmature nose with crushed dark fruits. On the palate, porty, very tannic, hyper-ripe. Some heat on the finish. Comes across as monolithic. I don't think this will evolve into anything much better.
Red
1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia USA, California, Napa Valley
94 points
Raspberry jam nose. On the palate, nice medium-weight wine. Clean Cab fruit plus apple skins, cherries and kirsch. Tannic and tight at first. Opened to reveal very nice structure under the fruit.
Red
1999 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate USA, California, Napa Valley
(I believe this was Kirk's contribution) Very closed nose that later showed bruised apples. Hard and ungiving on the palate. Fully closed all night. No judgement. Don't waste one by opening now.
Red
1999 Ridge Monte Bello USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
93 points
Strong but elegant cedar nose. Lighter on the palate than on the nose. At first partially closed. After about an hour, started to open. Cassis, blackberries and a foresty taste. Lovely wine with a long life ahead. I think this wine is not for the wood averse, though.
Red
1999 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cépages USA, California, Sonoma County
86 points
Totally lost in this company. On the nose, a trace of perfume and then green pepper. On the palate, the green pepper follows along with some tar and green tobacco. Herbaceous - was this under-ripe? Disjointed wine with a short finish. Tommy said this wine got better through the evening...it would have been hard to get much worse. (I should note that I've had the '96 and '97 of this on other occasions and quite enjoyed them.)
Red
1999 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
96 points
This was one of the big boys. Super ripe nose. Smooth entry on the palate. Classic cassis, black fruit and plums. Superfine tannins. On its own, an excellent wine - gorgeous. A notch below the '97 HSS. However, I must say that this wine did not really match any of the food through the whole night. A show pony only?
Red
1999 Signorello Estate Padrone USA, California, Napa Valley
95 points
This wine was generously brought by Ray Signorello. I will say that we were all very cognizant of trying to be fair in drinking it and assessing it in front of Ray. I had this marked down at the outset as the nicest nose of any wine on the evening. This was affirmed as consensus in a later discussion with the group. The nose revealed perfectly ripe (not surmature) red fruit and a slightly floral aroma. The nose telgraphed the palate of perfectly ripened, cool, smooth Cab fruit. I noted a more European profile. Later, Ray affirmed his great interest in French and Italian wines and his desire to make a wine that goes well with food. On its own, the wine seemed medium-weight and had a hint of thinness in the mid-palate. With food (particularly the herb crusted duck breast, with which this wine paired to perfection) the wine seemed to flesh out in the mouth. Excellent.
Red
1999 Harlan Estate USA, California, Napa Valley
97 points
Another bruiser. The nose morphed a few times during the night. At first whiff, I thought this is a nose that could compete with the Padrone. Then later a note of latex paint emerged and detracted. Finally, this blew off and the nose turned sweet and confected. True nose - who knows? On entry, super smooth. Ultrafine tannins (even finer than the Shafer HSS) disintegrate into the structure of the wine. Ripe on the palate with mocha and brown sugar accenting cassis, cherry and blueberries. Despite its size, the wine was the best match of all these with medium rare lamb. If the nose is what I first encountered, then 97 pts. If the paint thing emerges, significantly less.
Red
1985 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection USA, California, Napa Valley
94 points
Another generous contribution from Ray. Fully mature, gorgeous nose with a hint of funk. On the palate, candied red fruit and ripe bing cherries. There is also a lovely earthiness to this wine. Lovely mature Napa cabernet.

Flight 3 - Delicious Desserts (3 notes)

Red - Fortified
1970 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
97 points
My contribution on the evening. Great mature Port. Electric ruby color. Cherry cough syrup, baking spices (incl. cinnamon), and sweet mature fruit. Touch of spirit. Generally super - spicy and exciting.
Red - Fortified
1976 Fonseca Porto Guimaraens Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
93 points
Opaque purple color! Quite a contrast to the '70 Taylor in appearance. Unbelievably young looking and tasting. Primary and a touch rustic yet. Brutally intense for a Port almost 20 years old. Needs more time.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1983 Château Guiraud France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
91 points
From Ray (a 375). First impression on the nose is styrofoam. Then honey and botrytis. Lovely and fully mature palate featuring lavander honey and pear liqueur. A nice Sauternes.

Closing

Biggest disappointment: Montelena. In over its head: CSJ. Top wines: Harlan, Padrone, HSS, '70 Taylor. Best with food: Padrone.

Cheers,

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