Important Update From the Founder
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Jemrose Dinner @ Marche Moderne in the OC
Marche Moderne, Costa Mesa CA
Tasted October 14, 2010 by Frank Murray III with 865 views
Introduction
Jim and Gloria Mack visited the OC this week and we were able to join them for a small group dinner at what I think is one of the best places in the OC, Marche Moderne (http://www.marchemoderne.net/). They built for us one helluva great tasting menu that did a fine job of supporting the Jemrose wines, along with a few non-Jemrose wines. I think the world of Jim and Gloria, not only for their kindness and warmth, but their desire to build a better and better expression of what the Bennett Valley can do with rhone varietals (http://www.jemrosewines.com/). This was a tremendous evening, as you can view through the photos and the tasting notes below. You'll note in the flights that Jim used a non-Jemrose wine as a comparison, just some hum drum stuff from France (!). Thanks to all who came, thank you Jim and Gloria for making it a great Thursday night!
Flight 1 - Amouse Bouche with Rose (2 notes)
Rosé
2009 Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel La Dame Rousse
I had trouble taking down some notes on this wine, as I don't drink a lot of rose. Red fruits, leaning towards strawberry and medium weight.
Rosé
2009 Shane Syrah Ma Fille Rosé
Tasted next to the Tavel Mordoree. Cool contrast. The Shane was a bit heavier, a bit more forward with watermelon.
Flight 2 - Vigonier--Jemrose Estate and Andre Perret (3 notes)
Tuna Crudo, carmelized onion jam, yuzu yogury spheres
White
2007 Jemrose Viognier Egret Pond
This drank excellent and showcased what Jim is doing with viognier. This was the first release of the wine, and came from his library, as there is not much of it left. No perceived sweetness. Silky and spicy, with tangerine, orange blossom and an anise seed note. Nice spicy finish, along with a cool orange-sicle note. Excellent, balanced and really stood out. Alc is 14.5%.
White
2009 Jemrose Viognier Egret Pond
Tasted alongside the 2007. Lifted aromatics of honeysuckle, less spicy than the 2007, as this 2009 seems more open textured, with apple and as it breathes, it picks up some stone fruit and orange notes. Jim seems to think this will evolve further and move more closer to the 2007 in time. Finish is still a bit closed/tight so more age will help. FWIW, the wine is made is done in stainless, then finished in neutral oak.
White
2008 André Perret Condrieu Chery
A toasty note starts in the aromatics, which then fades out with air. Refreshing with good acidity, structure and a bit leaner in texture than the Jemrose viogniers tasted alongside it. Some mineral but the acidity is really nice in this wine, adding a smoothness to the texture/
Flight 3 - Grenache--Jemrose Estate and Rayas (3 notes)
Tarragon roasted octopus, sauce choron "N2O", truffled pommes pont neuf
Red
2007 Jemrose Grenache Foggy Knoll
Tasted alongside the 2008. The 2007 is blended with 10% syrah and 10% new oak. A coffee-like aroma is present in the 2007, absent in the 2008. Dark fruited palate, mainly red fruits with a hint of black. Finishes with leather, raspberry and a riper tone than the 2008.
Red
2008 Jemrose Grenache Foggy Knoll
Tasted alongside the 2007. I prefer the 2008, as it seems leaner, a bit more focused and absent are some the ripe edges in the 2007. Also, this is only 5% syrah, with the same 10% new oak. Fruits are juicier in red, leather and good structure on the finish. Will need of course for time to age and in talking with Jim, whose passion is to use Rayas as a point of reference for where he wants his estate grenache to head, the 2008 is heading in the right direction.
Red
2006 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
god, without Jim Mack, I would know nothing about Rayas. Jim has now generously shared with me the 2004 and 2005 (2X) in the past year, now the 2006. This is one heluva of a wine, like the Chave Hermitage. Aromatically distinct, exhibiting some pepper, smashed rocks, spice and saddle. Then, when the wine hit my palate, the melange of strawberry, raspberry show. The balance and complexity of this young Rayas, again, amazing. We tried this alongside Jim Mack's greanche estate, both the 2007 and 2008, which he calls Foggy Knoll. As Jim aspires to continue to craft his own expression of grenache, using Rayas as an aspiration, this is certainly a worthy goal. After now having tasted yet another Rayas, I need to open my wallet and find some, as the wine is truly an experience, as this 2006 was.
Flight 4 - Syrah--Jemrose Estate and Chave (3 notes)
Perdo Jimenez roasted duck breast, crushed cauliflower, olives and dates
Red
2006 Jemrose Syrah Cardiac Hill Bennett Valley
30% whole cluster, 30 % new oak, 14.5% alcohol (tasting closer to 15). Iron, a bit of heat, richer black cherry, blackberry and same iron notes in the palate. The wine is bigger boned but it's not in the overblown syrah style.
Red
2008 Jemrose Syrah Cardiac Hill Bennett Valley
Like the 2006, 30% new oak and whole cluster, with a lower alcohol here of 14.1%. Nose shows potpourri (dried flowers), lavender and is better balanced than the 2006, IMO. Good mix of richness but the balance keeps it on track. Iron, good acidity and still tight so all things said, will in my view age better and be better than the 2006. FWIW, I tasted and noted the 2007 version about 6 weeks ago, and found that wine to be drinking terrific. I think what shows is that Jim, through Michael Browne, is getting his syrah where he wants it. The progression from 2006- 2008 shows that direction.
Red
2007 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
What an excellent wine this was. I even doodled "WOTY?" in my notes. The unfortunate part is that unless I go beat the path to source one soon, it's not likely I can taste it again before year's end. The fruit shows a dark purity, a delicate/crushed sense. As it aired, becomes a bit more sauvage but retains that tremendous fruit expression and balance. I have pure underlined, too. Just so many things going on in this wine, I wish I could have drank another glass of it today and really sat and appreciated it again. IMO, this wine is certainly worth the reputation that is attached to it. Tremendous.
Flight 5 - Merlot/Syrah--Gloria's Jem and Pomerol (3 notes)
Roasted lamb ribeye, basque piperade, shishito pepper and coriander emulsion
Red
2006 Jemrose Gloria's Gem
Tasted alongside the 2008. 60% syrah and 40% merlot. The syrah is done in neutral oak, the merlot in 100% Taransaud oak. This 2006 is certainly flamboyant and flashy with lots of ripe tones and oak accents. Dark chocolate, richness and dark fruit.
Red
2008 Jemrose Gloria's Gem
Like the 2006, which we tasted alongside this 2008, made similarly with the syrah seeing no new wood and the merlot the reverse, seeing all new wood. 55% syrah and 45% merlot. The oak shows on the aromatics, kind of soapy at this point, a deep dark wine. Palate shows cherry and cocoa, with some milk chocolate on the finish.
Red
2000 Château Hosanna
Smells like a bdx based wine. As much as I am moving more to a french style, I still have not grown fond of the aromatics of Pomerol. Green notes, with dark cherry and herbal. The fruit tastes pretty good, actually very nice, but the pungent and herbal nature of Pomerol is something I still can't cozy up to.
Flight 6 - Late Harvest Viognier (2 notes)
Assorted fromage
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Jemrose Late Harvest Viognier Egret Pond
This drinks super. Only one barrel was made, and from what Jim, the labor involved to make that one barrel was significant. Delicious honey texture, orange oil, apricot, lime and apple. This was very nice and while I don't really enjoy sweet wines all that much, this was quite good.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Ayguets
Tasted next to the 2008 Jemrose late harvest, which beat this Cuilleron. Shows amber, bronze in color, did not have the complexity to me as the Jemrose. I tasted a couple times but went back to the Jemrose to complete the meal.