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2011 Bottle Shock Wine Party: Blind Tasteoff of Mature Bordeaux and Cali Cabs

Sandy & Michael's, Los Altos, California

Tasted May 14, 2011 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 1,538 views

Introduction


This is a fun event, really a wine party with the emphasis on the word "party," that Sandy and Michael have thrown at their home in Los Altos for three years running. The theme is the movie "Bottle Shock." I'm no fan of that extremely Hollywoodized version of the Judgment of Paris tasting, but the party version is an opportunity to compare Cabernet-based wines from California and Bordeaux, enjoy the company of some lovely people, and generally not take things too seriously. This year we tasted through several Bordeaux and Cali Cabs while people gathered on Michael and Sandy's lovely covered patio. The "Judgment of Paris" blindtasting was then set up, with four of us acting as "judges" this year: Christine Tran from Artisan Wine Depot, T-Vine Cellars' Chuck Easley, major collector Eric Nagel, and me. Before we began, a "singing telegram" showed up to advise us on our role as judges. Unfortunately the weather was not fully cooperative, as a cool and cloudy evening suddenly turned even cooler, with gusty winds and light rain, and we were supposed to be doing the judging outside. As the temperature sank, the eight wines we were supposed to rank were showing little nose and were rather hard to grasp on the palate as well, but we got through that portion of the evening with a little help from large umbrella wind breaks and a heat lamp. We then moved inside, to our host's huge living room, where I got to retaste most of the eight wines and confirm my rankings.


The eight wines for the judging portion were all mature or maturing Bordeaux and Cali Cabs--four of each. I found it pretty easy to tell the French from the Californians in this flight. My favorite wine, second for the group, was the 2000 Figeac, which I thought was more likely to be a Graves/Pessac Leognan than a St. Emilion. Still, I'm not surprised I picked a very reliable producer from a truly great year, 2000, as my favorite. My second favorite, and the favorite of the rest of the panel, was the 2005 Léoville Poyferré, another good producer and excellent year (if a little less approachable than the 2000). I liked the Léoville Poyferré very much too, but found the Figeac more approachable, with a significantly longer finish. So, for the judges, the French wines came out on top. The best of the California wines in the blindtasting for me were two from 1997: Diamond Creek's Volcanic Hill and Chateau Montelena. The rest of the contenders in the blindtasting were a '99 Heitz Martha's Vineyard, a '97 Dominus and two Left Bank Bordeaux neighbors from 1989: Pichon Baron and Pichon Lalande.

There was a lot of great food, including Sandy's delicious moussaka, and lots more wine poured throughout the evening. The highlights of the other wines for me were the '04 Beringer Private Reserve, a '97 Stag's Leap Fay, and our final wine, a 1970 Fonseca Port poured from magnum. Sandy and Michael definitely know how to throw a memorable party, and it's always great to spend time with their friends. All in all, I rate the party version of the movie very high; the movie, not so much.

Flight 1 - Bubbly Starter (1 note)


Jim and Debbie

White - Sparkling
N.V. Taittinger Champagne Brut Réserve / La Française France, Champagne
90 points
Light yellow color; yeasty, apple, baked lemon nose; tasty, tart apple, yeasty, mineral palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 2 - Pre-Blindtasting Wines (13 notes)


Red
1994 Kathryn Kennedy Cabernet Sauvignon USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
87 points
Bricking dark red violet color; mushroom, cedar, tart plum nose; mature, tart plum palate, lacking structure; medium finish
Red
1997 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Fay USA, California, Napa Valley
93 points
Bricking medium red violet color; nice, mature, mushroom, tart cassis, cedar nose; tasty, cedar, tart cassis, black fruit, mushroom palate; good now, and may go 5 more years; medium-plus finish
Red
1997 Dominus Estate USA, California, Napa Valley
92 points
Bricking dark red violet color; mature, mushroom nose; tasty, mature, mushroom palate with resolved tannins; medium-plus finish 92+ points
Red
2000 Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru) France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
89 points
Bricking dark red violet color; mushroom, mature, cedar nose; mature, soft, mushroom, cedar, tart plum palate; time to drink up, should go 2 years; medium finish
Red
2003 Château Beychevelle France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
89 points
Dark red violet color; brett, oak, barnyard nose; brett, coffee, plush tart plum, charcoal palate; medium finish
Red
2004 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve USA, California, Napa Valley
94 points
Dark red violet color; nice, medium bodied, blackberry, cassis, berry, dark chocolate nose; ripe blackberry, berry, cassis, light caramel palate with sweet tannins; long finish (100% new French oak, fruit from 7 vineyards; 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc)
Red
2004 Gemstone G USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
90 points
Very dark red violet color; ripe plum, berry, chocolate nose; rich, ripe berry, plum chocolate, caramel palate; medium-plus finish
Red
2005 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate USA, California, Napa Valley, Calistoga
92 points
Dark red violet color; brett, ripe plum, cassis nose; youthful, ripe plum, berry, blackberry palate; needs 2-3 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points
Red
2005 Sorada Cabernet Sauvignon USA, California, Napa Valley
89 points
From magnum - bricking dark red violet color; black fruit, berry nose; soft, ripe black fruit, plum, berry palate; not for aging; medium finish
Red
2005 Hewitt Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
92 points
Very dark red violet color; berry, cedar, blackberry nose; blackberry, berry, black plum palate; medium-plus finish
Red
2006 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cépages USA, California, Sonoma County
90 points
Dark red violet color; berry, blackberry, vanilla nose; tight, berry, caramel, vanilla palate; medium-plus finish
Red
2007 Robert Keenan Winery Mernet Reserve USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
92 points
Very dark red violet color; berry, black raspberry, plum nose; tasty, berry, ripe plum, blackberry, chocolate palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points (50/50 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)
Red
2007 Revana Cabernet Sauvignon USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
92 points
Dark red violet color; plum, black fruit, lavender nose; tasty, rich, ripe berry, plum black fruit, caramel palate, very smooth and low acidity, but tasty; medium-plus finish 92+ points

Flight 3 - Blindtasting Cali Cabs vs. Bordeaux - in my order of preference (8 notes)


Red
2000 Château Figeac France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
94 points
Bricking dark red violet color; smoke, toast, roasted fruit nose; tasty, toast, tart cassis, elegant, gravel palate; long finish
Red
2005 Château Léoville Poyferré France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
93 points
Very dark red violet color; soft plum, berry, cassis nose; tasty, rich, youthful, cassis, berry, plum, cedar palate; will go 10-plus years; long finish 93+ points (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot)
Red
1997 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
93 points
Dark red violet color; intense, ripe cassis, berry, plum nose; tasty, berry, cassis, plum, cedar palate; medium-plus finish
Red
1997 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate USA, California, Napa Valley
92 points
Bricking very dark red violet color; berry, blackberry nose; tasty, cassis, blackberry palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points
Red
1999 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
92 points
Very dark red violet color; cassis, cedar, red berry, mint nose; tasty, cassis, tart red berry, mint, solid palate; needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish
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Red
1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
91 points
Slightly bricking very dark red violet color; maturing, brett, cedar, tart plum nose; mature, brett, tart cassis, cedar palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Red
1997 Dominus Estate USA, California, Napa Valley
91 points
Dark red violet color; nice, maturing, mushroom, tart black fruit nose; tasty, mature, tart black fruit, roasted, smoke, graphite palate; medium-plus finish
Red
1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
90 points
Bricking medium dark red violet color; brett, mature, mushroom nose; quite mature, brett, mushroom, plum palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 4 - Post-tasting wines (4 notes)


Michael and Sandy

Red
2000 Domaine Santa Duc Rasteau Les Blovac France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Rasteau
87 points
Bricking dark red violet color; mature, dried herb, black fruit, mushroom nose; mature, tart black fruit, dried herb palate; medium finish
Red
2003 Carter Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Coliseum Block USA, California, Napa Valley
90 points
Dark red violet color; intense, black fruit, tar nose; tar, black fruit, youthful palate; medium-plus finish
Red
2004 Bremer Family Austintatious USA, California, Napa Valley
89 points
Very dark red violet color; berry, black fruit nose; soft, berry, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish
Red
2006 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
89 points
Very dark red violet color; tart black fruit, cedar, berry nose; tasty, tart black fruit, gravel, charcoal palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 5 - T-Vine Flight (5 notes)


T-Vine Cellars owner Chuck Easley

Red
2009 T-Vine Cellars Grenache Paras Vineyard USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
89 points
Very dark red violet color; ripe berry, ripe cherry nose; tasty, ripe berry, ripe black cherry palate; medium-plus finish
Red
2008 T-Vine Cellars Merlot Napa Valley USA, California, Napa Valley
88 points
Opaque purple red violet color; ripe, baked berry, plum nose; ripe berry, plum, baked berry palate; medium finish
Red
2008 T-Vine Cellars "T" Red USA, California, Napa Valley
87 points
Very dark red violet color; plum baked berry nose; berry, raisin, Zin palate; medium finish
Red
2007 T-Vine Cellars Petite Sirah Napa Valley USA, California, Napa Valley
91 points
Opaque purple red violet color; berry, black fruit, deep nose; tasty, deep, black fruit, tar, berry palate; long finish 91+ points
Red
2007 T-Vine Cellars Syrah Frediani Vineyard USA, California, Napa Valley, Calistoga
91 points
Opaque red violet color; ripe plum, berry, black fruit nose; berry, plum black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points

Flight 6 - Sweet Finish (1 note)

Red - Fortified
1970 Fonseca Porto Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
94 points
From magnum - bricking dark red violet color; maturing, berry, black fruit, mushroom nose; rich, powerful, berry, black fruit, youthful, chocolate palate; will go 30-plus years; long finish
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