Champs, Burgs, Barolos, Malbecs @ Leo's
Leo & Connies's in Eastchester, NY
Tasted May 20, 2011 by kenv with 757 views
Introduction
What fun! Leo and Connie had a terrific set of guests visiting on the same evening: Michael Twelftree (Winemaker and co-owner of Two Hands Winery); Patrick d'Aulan (President of the Edonia group & Owner of Alta Vista) and his wife Christine; Philippe Rolet (Chief Winemaker & Estate Manager for Alta Vista) and his wife Vanessa; and locals Greg Tatar and Ray Tuppatsch.
Flight 1 - Flight 1: Vintage Champagne (4 notes)
All (most?) brought by Ray. With Champagnes this age, it's not surprising my reviews were a bit mixed, but the Drappier was wonderful and the Bollinger was truly great! Served with fresh oyster, cured meats, and sashimi!
White - Sparkling
1988 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut
France, Champagne
Magnum. Disgorged in 2003. Gorgeous lemon custard nose with hints of all kinds of subtle spices. Stunningly complex in the mouth. Great length. Yeasty, full-bodied style. Truly great wine. Just when I might think Champagne might not be that interesting, I get hit with a bottle like this. Amazing!
Flight 2 - Flight 2: White Burgundy (2 notes)
One was odd, one was terrific. Served with Leo's fabulous Tuscan Bean Soup.
Flight 3 - Flight 3: Red Burgundy (3 notes)
Really enjoyed all 3 of these, but the two Clos de Bèze were just terrific. Served with 2 main courses: A delicious sauted chicken and a tender and tasty braised beef.
Red
2001 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Very tannic with lots of black cherries. Odd that it would be so tannic at 10 years old. Is it just the bottle or does this need another 10 years? 91-94 if it does get better.
Red
2005 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Much riper than the 01 Jadot Beze, and thicker. Long and rich, another impressive wine. Not quite as complex right now, but may get there in a few more years.
Flight 4 - Flight 4: Giacosa Barolo (2 notes)
Served with 2 main courses: A delicious sauted chicken and a tender and tasty braised beef. The 1987 showed best for me, but others preferred the 1990.
Red
1987 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Rocche di Castiglione Falletto
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Gloriously complex nose of truffles and dried red fruits. Clearly at its peak, it is drinking beautifully now. Good body, excellent length, great sense of harmony. Seemed to me that about half the people preferred this to the 90 Falletto Riserva and half preferred that.
Red
1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A touch of something not quite right in the nose. I thought it might be a touch oxidized, but Michael Twelftree, Greg Tatar, and Patrick d'Aulan all thought it was part of the complexity and used other words to describe it. it does have a long piercing finish with a lot of truffle and forest floor. About half the group preferred this to the 87 Rocche.
Flight 5 - Flight 5: Gemstone California Cabernet (1 note)
May have suffered from its placement in this dinner.
Red
2001 Gemstone G
USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
Maybe it was coming after all the Burgundies and Barolos, but man did this taste thick and gunky in a very heavy-handed way. Over-ripe. Yuck.
Flight 6 - Flight 6: Horizontal of Alta Vista Single Vineyard Malbecs (3 notes)
Poured and introduced by Philippe Rolet, chief winemaker and estate manager for Alta Vista, with some obvious and deserved pride. All 3 of these are very young but have great potential. Philippe said they have made these since 2001. These are all 100% Malbec. The 3 vineyards are all at about 1000 meter of elevation, but are separated by about 150 km from north to south. Each has a different soil and old vines. The picking dates vary among the vineyards, but otherwise the wines vinified in exactly the same way.
Red
2007 Alta Vista Malbec Single Vineyard Temis Vineyard
Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
[Chalk soil. Planted 1939.] Laser-like nose of plums. Thick, silky, black black fruit. Licorice. Terrific length. The most open of these 3 right now. The best Malbec I've ever had. 93-96 points.
Red
2007 Alta Vista Malbec Serenade Vineyard
Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
[Clay soil. Planted in 1960.] More liqueurous in the nose. Kirsch. Rich and stunning up front, but a bit short right now compared to the others. Very young. 91-93 points.
Closing
I can't recall when I've met such a fun and diverse group of people at a tasting. The wines were equally fun and diverse. My top 5 wines included a Champagne, a white Burgundy, a red Burgundy, a Barolo, and a Malbec!
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