Focus on 2010 Burgundy- The 2013 La Paulee Grand Tasting

Metropolitan Pavilion, New York

Tasted March 9, 2013 by drwine2001 with 560 views

Introduction

Any other day, I would have jumped at the chance to taste wines from Leflaive, Bruno Clair, Lafarge, and other noted producers, but the enormity of the event and palate fatigue conspired to limit me to the following brief, impressionistic notes of wines I was most keen about trying. I have no doubt that I missed other great wines, and I trust that these will be duly described by others who attended the event.

Flight 1 - Laroche (4 notes)

It seems as though the quality drops off significantly below their top wine, the Reserve de l'Obedience.

White
2010 Domaine Laroche Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Subtle seashell nose. Light to medium weight, classic Chablis flavors and a driving, rocky finish with a twist of quinine. Impressive and pure, in fact more so than the Grand Cru that immediately followed.
White
2010 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Medium weight, nice texture but more anonymous and less Chablis character due to the noticeable wood treatment.
White
2010 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Deeper and creamier than the regular Blanchots with good acidity and excellent length. This also has some wood but handles it better than the former wine. Not as distinguished as Les Clos can be.
White
2010 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot Réserve de l'Obédience France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Excellent depth and concentration-a step up from the Clos. Textural entry but then an electric finish of acidity and minerality like the Vaillons but even more resounding. The oak is easily incorporated here due to the sheer volume and strength of the juice. Superb.

Flight 2 - Christian Moreau (4 notes)

Variable, some with too much wood in evidence.

White
2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Bright citrus and oyster shell. Light, feminine, very clean, great acidity. A terrific Premier Cru.
White
2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Same lighter weight as the Vaillons but more noticeable wood. Pretty mediocre.
White
2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Much deeper than the Vaudesir with classic Chablis aromas and great finishing acidity. The wood is more in the background because of the better concentration of fruit. Excellent.
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White
2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Clos des Hospices France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Again, classic mix of Chablis iodine and oyster shell. Rich lemon cream flavors to start and then a long, deep lime and herb finish. Of the 3 Grand Crus, this showed only a touch of wood which did not define the wine. Classic, outstanding.

Flight 3 - Vincent Dauvissat (4 notes)

The last 3 wines are pretty iconic examples and must be amongst the top Chablis of this very strong Chablis vintage.

White
2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Petit Chablis France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis
The roundest, woodiest and friendliest of these Dauvissat offerings. Very different from the style of the rest and pretty modest quality.
White
2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
After the Petit Chablis, a palatal shock-clean, linear, lemony. Light weight and very tight. Should be a great Forest. It packs quite a punch for its weight and is just waiting to uncoil.
White
2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
A step up in weight from La Forest. Brothy, herbal and already amazingly complex. Long finish, scintillating acidity. Always the most mysterious, hard to pin down wine in the Dauvissat stable, and it did not disappoint in this way.
White
2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Same weight as the Preuses (i.e., not huge). All bright, dry citrus and mineral with higher acidity than that wine. Whoa, incredible length and drive. Exciting and seemingly endless. This should be an all time great. Not as interesting breadth of flavors currently as the Preuses, but it will get there.

Flight 4 - William Fevre (4 notes)

White
2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montmains France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Oyster shell nose. Light and lacking in depth. Unexciting.
White
2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Much more interesting than the Montmains with superior citrus, weight and texture. Lemon drop sweetness but good back end structure.
White
2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Classically saline and brothy with greater volume than either Premier Cru, but alas, this was also the wine in which the wood stuck out noticeably. Otherwise attractive but I have to mark it down for the amount of oak.
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White
2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Similar brothiness and weight to the Bougros upfront, but stronger acidity and finishes lean and sleek with excellent penetration. You feel more than taste any wood in this one. The best of the range poured today.

Flight 5 - Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey (4 notes)

I don't drink enough Cote de Beaune white to know exactly where Colin-Morey stands in the overall hierarchy, but I do know that what I've tasted over the past couple of years from him has been brilliant. The high end wines have amazing acidity and typicity, and his handling of St. Aubin seems nothing short of miraculous.

White
2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Chatenière France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Delicious, open and beautifully textured as only his St. Aubins seem to be. Drinkable although there is sound acidity.
White
2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
In comparison to the St. Aubin, leaner, floral, taut citrus and great acidity. Very good.
White
2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A clear step up in quality from the Ancegnieres. Stronger citrus fruit, more flesh but still great acidity and minerality. Absolutely delightful Chassagne.
White
2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Creamy, complex, lactic. Some faint citrus fruit and a deft touch of wood. Rich without the least bit of heaviness, terrific length. Sigh-this is right up there as one of the best Grand Cru Cote de Beaune whites I had over the course of 2 days of tastings.

Flight 6 - Lafon (3 notes)

White
2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Refreshing, surprisingly elegant lighter style of Meursault with good fruit and some cinnamon. Very good.
White
2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Much lower pitched than the Clos de la Barre. Bigger, creamier and much greater depth with discrete, tolerable (to me) oakiness. As opposed to the other Charmes I tried today, this was the only one that had Grand Cru size and still retained its Meursault roots.
Red
2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Very appealing nose of dark flowers and mixed fruit. Unusually lacy and approachable for a Lafon Volnay Santenots. Good balance, well integrated acidity. Should be at least excellent over time.

Flight 7 - Drouhin (4 notes)

White
2010 Joseph Drouhin / Drouhin-Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru Bougros France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Nice saline nose with some oak toast. Good texture, very good acidity. A good middle of the road Grand Cru Chablis.
White
2010 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Terrific amplitude, creamy feel to the fruit and a touch of wood (not nearly as much as I sensed in a 2007 I drank recently). Great acidity and strongly mineral finish. Very promising.
Red
2010 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Earthy nose, light bodied, slightly muddled red fruit. Not showing much today (as opposed to the white).
Red
2010 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Aromatic with black fruit and licorice. Light, delicate wine with a deeper core at the end. Backward now, excellent potential going forward.

Flight 8 - Jean-Marc Bouley (3 notes)

I'm all for a core of bright fruit (see Fourrier below), but these were the ripest, most obvious reds of the tasting. In retrospect, fun to taste, but at the expense of clarity and complexity.

Red
2010 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Syrupy cherry (in fact this may have been the ripest fruit I tasted the whole weekend). That said, good earth and back end acidity, so rich but not over the top.
Red
2010 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay 1er Cru Les Carelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Very pretty black cherry fruit. Good balancing acidity. Medium weight, real sap. Tasty although not particularly elegant or precise for Volnay.
Red
2010 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Like all 3 of these wines, this also is very fruit driven with excellent depth of red fruit offset by soil, but this is slightly more delicate and finer grained than the Carelles.

Flight 9 - Robert Chevillon (4 notes)

Chevillon seems to have the Midas touch in recent vintages, and so it was with these wines, except for the Cailles, which was not having a particularly good day.

Red
2010 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Incredible berry like fruit, lush texture and excellent length. Least soil of the 4 wines, but that fruit is rich and delicious.
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Red
2010 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Much earthier than the Bousselots with good balance of red fruit and soil in the mouth. Medium weight but not as soft and harmonious in its feel.
Red
2010 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Aromatic but lean, tight and quite backward today. Defer judgement.
Red
2010 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Voluminous, rich, complex, round and long. The biggest wine of the bunch while maintaining its shape and structure. Needs time, should be outstanding.

Flight 10 - Arlot (4 notes)

Disappointing except for the Suchots.

White
2010 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de l'Arlot Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Ripe, rich citrus and plenty of oak. Not very much structure here.
Red
2010 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de l'Arlot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Ripe entry, also rich like the Arlot blanc, but good acidity. Nothing special.
Red
2010 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Different structure than the Clos de l'Arlot. Higher acidity, leaner, and all I could taste was drying, astringent wood. Not good at all.
Red
2010 Domaine de L'Arlot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Floral, supple with a really attractive set of red fruit aromatics. Less overwrought than either Nuits. Approachable, silky feel and a tad of earth on the finish. This was the only wine in the range that had much appeal. "Come hither" style, for the near term rather than significant aging potential.

Flight 11 - Faiveley (4 notes)

Red
2010 Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru
A gentle wisp of a wine with light weight, pretty, faded strawberry, lightly earthy and a bit of brambly tang. Enjoyable for what it is. Similar impression the only other time I tasted it.
Red
2010 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Excellent concentrated red fruit and great balance of this fruit with acidity and earth. Round, extremely harmonious wine with great equipoise and potential going forward. This is not the biggest or most powerful wine I tasted today, but the seamlessness was striking, even in the context of some of the superstars in the overall line up.
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Red
2010 Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Same weight as the Cazetiers, but much more tilted toward soil on both the nose and palate. More back of the mouth structure, less giving than the Premier Cru, yet it finishes very well-no question that it has the underlying material to blossom, but essentially backward and for the next decade, as it should be.
White
2010 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
As opposed to the impressive, well balanced reds, this was atypical for the vintage in being ripe, a bit tropical, lush and woody. Hard to see any underlying grip here. Pass.

Flight 12 - Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg (4 notes)

All of these wines shared an impressive, uplifting core of acidity and terrific distinction of site. The Clos Vougeot was substituted for the Grands-Echezeaux, so this was the second time tasting this wine at La Paulee events.

Red
2010 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Alluring mix of red and black fruit, medium weight, really sophisticated feel for a village wine and refreshing acidity. This was one of the wines at the Grand Tasting that was emblematic of how excellent the village wines could be this year.
Red
2010 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Very different from the Vosne. Elegant, savory, soil filled wine with less obvious fruit than that wine. Not as direct or forward, although not necessarily that much better given its Premier Cru status.
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Red
2010 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Elegant, crisp black fruit. Very strong, ringing acidity. Holding back quite a bit now. Not a gigantic Grand Cru but very refined, great length and persistence. Really full of finesse and may turn out to be truly outstanding.
Red
2010 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Serious, more brooding style with classic black fruit. This was the only Mugneret wine in which I detected any wood, but it is certainly not at an objectionable level. Round, harmonious and easy to appreciate now, but there is a lot that is buried in reserve for the long haul. All four wines that they showed had beautiful fidelity to their respective sites. This is not quite as fine as the Echezeaux but also should be outstanding in a more frankly powerful style.

Flight 13 - Eugenie (4 notes)

Seriously impressive from bottom to top, and like the Mugneret wines, also high fidelity to the various sites.

Red
2010 Domaine d'Eugénie Vosne-Romanée Le Clos d'Eugenie France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Spicy red fruit. Medium weight, a soft touch of wood, soil on the finish. Delicious and another terrific village level Vosne.
Red
2010 Domaine d'Eugénie Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulees France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Whole berry aromatics. Med weight. Very vivid, bright red fruit, more depth than the Clos d'Eugenie and some spicy but unobtrusive oak. Excellent.
Red
2010 Domaine d'Eugénie Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Red and black fruit mixture on the nose. Same weight as the Brulee but a more delicate feel due to more acidity. Blacker fruit in the mouth than that wine. Finesse and balance.
Red
2010 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
The most serious, backward, brooding wine in the Eugenie line up. Quite woody base, but really wonderful material that overcomes this and makes it deep, long and harmonious, if not at all ready for prime time. This should make a lush, rather fleshy Clos Vougeot down the road. Outstanding potential and I'd guess that it has enough to absorb the wood. Interestingly, second time tasted in 2 days and this sample was more open.

Flight 14 - Hudelot-Noellat (4 notes)

This may have been the sleeper set of the tasting for me-elegant and lovely. I only wish I could afford a bottle or two of the RSV-what a beauty!

Red
2010 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Beautiful light basic Vosne with redder fruit, sleek feel and texture, and good lift from its acidity.
Red
2010 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Deeper, more reserved and serious than the village wine. Blacker fruit, some herbs and great expanding back end acidity. Outstanding potential.
Red
2010 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Slightly bigger than the Suchots. Deep black fruit and a strong thread of soil. The earthiest and most tannic of the Hudelot wines and a bit more rough and tumble than the Eugenie Clos Vougeot. Truly excellent but may not turn out to be quite as good in its class as the Suchots.
Red
2010 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Gorgeous fresh strawberry nose, extremely fragrant already. Light, supple, just packed with flavor. Superb sugar/acid balance, very long. This is totally seductive and won't require as much delayed gratification as the Clos Vougeot.

Flight 15 - Fourrier (4 notes)

The essence of fruit purity (without soupiness or overextraction), ravishing aromatics and gentle, carressing texture. A great range of Gevreys this year.

Red
2010 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Explosive, bright red fruit leaps out of the glass. Supple, pliant, lovely texture in a light package with good acidity and a dash of earth. Fantastic village wine and what a great introduction to the very stylish style of this producer. Hell, it is so achingly delicious that it provides a tremendous snapshot of what we love about red Burgundy.
Red
2010 Domaine Fourrier Morey St. Denis Clos Solon Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
True to its commune, blacker fruit than the Gevreys. More earthy as well. Leaner, higher acid, harsher feel and overall, not nearly as good as any of the Gevrey wines.
Red
2010 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Similar fruit profile to the Gevrey VV but slightly larger scaled and more prominent acidity. This will benefit from a few years, but I'm hard pressed to say that it is that much better than the village wine.
Red
2010 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Again, stunningly forward, bright red fruit aromatics. Sappy, silky and long with a touch of soil and strong back end acidity. Approachable but much time in hand to fully blossom. The class of the group. Whereas at last year's tasting, the '09 Fourriers left me scratching my head, the 2010 Gevreys left me salivating and licking my chops.

Flight 16 - G. Roumier/Christophe Roumier (4 notes)

Profound, complex and much more soil and mineral driven than just about any other set of reds at this tasting. Only the Ruchottes left a bit to be desired.

Red
2010 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Savory red fruit. Light, totally lovely wine, true to its delicate origins and in an earthier, more mineral style than the village Chambolle from Dujac.
Red
2010 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Not surprisingly, much meatier and chewier than the preceding wine with more varied red and black fruit. Lots of soil, great length, substantial but tame tannins. Excellent!
Red
2010 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Red fruited like the village Chambolle, but a whole different animal in terms of depth of material. Impressively sappy feel to buffer significantly higher acidity. Very earthy. Unlike the village, it would be a serious error to broach this over the next 10 years. Built to last.
Red
2010 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Of all the Roumier wines, this has the most obscure fruit. At this early point, it is soil filled and soil driven. Same weight as the Chambolle Cras but a bit less palate impact. If given the opportunity (which I won't be), I'd pick the Cras hands down over this wine, and it is not just a preference for Chambolle over Gevrey, but one of balance and potential.

Flight 17 - Dujac (4 notes)

Particularly nice village wines. The Clos de la Roche was a little harder to read today.

Red
2010 Dujac Fils et Père Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Fantastic quality village wine, not too shabby for a negociant bottling! Light, crisp and typical Chambolle. Beautiful red fruit with bright balancing acidity. No crime to drink now but room for improvement over 5 years.
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White
2010 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
More robust than the Chambolle with a red and black fruit melange. I got some stems here as well. Good, long and buffering sap.
Red
2010 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Ripe, berry like, mostly red fruit and earth. Lighter, feminine style, but I was surprised that it did not eclipse the stuffing of the 2 village wines by a wider margin. Yes, it has more incipient complexity but not enough to justify the significantly higher price.
Red
2010 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Herbs and black fruit on the nose. Medium weight, peppery, tannic and lightly stemmy. Backward and currently dry on the finish. Not lush now but a hidden deep core. I went back again to try it from another bottle and found more of the beautiful Dujac texture, so I am willing to say that it is merely shut down now and give it the benefit of the doubt. One way or another, it will need a lot of time to resolve its structure.
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Flight 18 - Miscellaneous Whites (8 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Delamotte Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs France, Champagne, Côte des Blancs, Champagne
As frothy, fresh, light and ethereal as ever.
White - Sparkling
2002 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne
Slightly weightier than the NV wine. Less effervescent and a hint of caramel maturity. Nice but I preferred the less expensive wine today.
White
2010 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Nice spice and citrus. Medium weight, discrete wood. Good, proper Meursault.
White
2010 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Elegant medium to light weight. Brisk citrus and excellent minerality. I really liked the way it danced in the mouth and seemed unencumbered by oak.
White
2010 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Cinnamon spice, lively and limpid for Meursault. Bursting with citrus rind. I just loved the zestiness and bounce of this wine, not to mention the absence of intrusive oak.
White
2010 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Bigger, lower toned and creamier than the Genevrieres, but it can't match that wine for its raciness and bright fruit. I preferred the smaller scaled wine.
White
2010 Pierre Morey Meursault Les Tessons France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Good fruit, discrete use of wood, not particularly strong framing acidity. All in all, a bit dull.
White
2010 Morey-Blanc Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Deeper and more dense than the Tessons with more vibrant citrus and acidity. Still some wood here, longer finish. Good but far from great.

Flight 19 - Miscellaneous Reds (3 notes)

Red
2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Very pretty combination of red fruit and earth. Medium weight with some sappy, liqueur-like aspects, but well framed by acidity. Very good.
Red
2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Tart red fruit nose. Big and woody for Volnay. I much preferred the Beaune.
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Red
2010 Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Spicy, tart red fruit and smokiness on the nose. Lighter weight. Ripe entry, some woody base, excellent acidity. Not entirely convincing for Grand Cru level wine.

Closing

So, what is the overall impression of 2010 red Burgundy (not enough of a sample size to generalize about the whites)? I would sum it up by saying that as a rule, the wines have terrific equilibrium, beautifully expressed fruit and wonderful freshness. Everything is just straight down the middle. The aromas lean toward red fruit, and lighter red fruit at that rather than deep black cherry. As importantly, the wines are distinguished by what is not there-neither overripeness (with rare exceptions) nor cool, green attributes. The weights seemed typical and never heavy, and the acidity deep but never extremely tart (as in a vintage such as 1996). What surprised me was the tannic structure, which was not nearly as forbidding as reviews led me to expect. I wonder if they will go through a prolonged closed period but cannot imagine that they will be as slow to open and evolve as the 2005's. When I try to compare it to other Burgundy vintages within my drinking lifetime, there are relatively few good fits; both 1978 and 1985 come to mind, but the analogies have their limitations. I believe that the '78s were harder and the '85s less concentrated and more short to medium term wines, but the balance and concentration of 1978 ring true to me.

Two other aspects strike me as I reflect back on the wines. First, the basic village cuvees of the great producers were often tremendous, so the excellence is not only at the top. Yes, the prices are not what they used to be, but bottles such as Fourrier's Gevrey VV or Dujac's Chambolle will undoubtedly give great pleasure and also provide a nice window into the greater bottlings that may not affordable at all. I will seek these out. Will the high end wines reach the heights of other truly great vintages? We'll see. Second, ranges such as the Mugneret or Eugenie wines demonstrate clear differentiation of the wines by site of origin. I suppose this illustrates Meadows' concept of "transparency", and it is a beautiful thing to taste such well defined wines.

All in all, this tasting left me very impressed and excited to buy and drink as many of these wines as I can.