Farewell to Josh - the burbs have him now.

L'Artusi Restaurant, West Village, Manhattan

Tasted March 7, 2013 by Seth Rosenberg with 192 views

Flight 1 (4 notes)

White - Sparkling
1996 Pommery Champagne Cuvée Louise Brut France, Champagne
95 points
From magnum, brought by Josh. Lavish nose of white flowers, white chalk, mature notes of some yeast, apple, pear. Brioche and toffee come out later. Sweet and bready on the palate with a brioche core, creamy, malt balls. Great lift and acid with a tight soft mousse. Focuses with a core that shows towards the end of lemon an tangerine fruit. Just fabulous on the palate. This really floated my boat - a great way to start the evening! Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/6 = 17.5/20.
White
2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
91 points
Nose: cool with menthol, mint, saline, copper (Matt), oak, lemon and nuts. Very rich and salty on the palate. Lemon and spice, oak and a touch of caramel. Not heavy. Juicy and rich. Burly. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/6 = 15.5/20.
White
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
95 points
Brought by Jonathan A. Cool, stony, salty, restrained and creamy with oak, spice. Enters with sweet lemon and has a delicious salty-sweet thing going on. It has the 05 richness but with great focus. The oak builds with some lemon in the middle, and the finish is really driven. Needs time, but delicious. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/6 = 17.5/20.
White - Sparkling
2002 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année France, Champagne
93 points
My bottle. Nose of pear, green apple, yeast, brioche. Has that rich Bolly style: bready with spice and toffee. The nose on this bottle is younger, more monolithic and less creamy that my previous. Explosive on the palate - lots of pear and apple, spice, ginger. Very winey - there is great base wine under these bubbles. Showed more complexity with time after opened. I didn't enjoy this quite as much as the last bottle, but it was still excellent. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 16.5/20.
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Flight 2 (8 notes)

Red
2007 Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir Nils Reserve USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
90 points
Brought by Dan Rinke - the winemaker at Johan. Nose of red spice, crunchy fruit, cinnamon, a slight bit of heat, red fruits: strawberry and raspberry. Silky entry with more red spice. Gentle and pretty with creamy and deep fruit. Again a touch of heat. towards the end. Classic pinot - Thanks Dan! Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 15/20.
Red
1990 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
91 points
My bottle. Big on the nose with alcohol, prune, tannins, spice, tar, roses, dried fruit and coffee. Big and burly on the palate with spices, dark fruit, acid and alcohol. I think I let this sit too long in the glass, but it was someone disjointed for me - I did get notes of coffee, mocha and spice and tar. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5//6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 15.5/20.
Red
1962 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
92 points
Very old and hanging on. Salty nose with cherry, sardine, and funk (seaweed - Matt). Soft on the palate - funky and tertiary. Blue cheese and cherries. Great acid, fully resolved with earthy notes and stones. A little cherry and sherry in the finish. Nose - 4/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/6 = 16/20.
Red
1978 Vietti Barolo Rocche Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
90 points
Old and tired on the nose - stinky and funky. Totally tertiary. Stones and some mocha. Lots of acid on the palate - hot stones, bright. This has lost some intensity of flavor - almost spirit-like. Good focus. Saline and salty on the finish.
Nose - 4/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 15/20.
Red
1988 Domaine Francois Lamarche La Grande Rue France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Grande Rue Grand Cru
91 points
Also brought by Dan. Funky and stinky on the nose. Mature. Similar on the palate. Sappy with hot stones, good acid. The dish I was eating with this had strong rosemary flavor and it made it difficult to taste the wine. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 15.5/20.
Red
1978 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
97 points
Intoxicating and beautifully perfumed nose of meat, spice, blood, brown sugar, (red apple skins - Matt), iron, minerals, worsterchester sauce, a touch of heat. It's the type of nose you want to just dive into and lose yourself in. This is a pristine bottle, and what a thrill. The palate is nearly as good with stewed tomato, iron, minerals, cherry, stones. Very pure - salty and saline with real persistence. Just delicious. It loses a little in the finish, which is still great and shows saline, iron. blood and cherries. What is really striking is how this wine is both silky and elegant, but also has so much flavor. A wine of great class and complexity. My WOTN and clearly heads and shoulders above everything else. Nose - 6/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/6 = 18.5/20.
Red
2002 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
90 points
Juicy and fruity in the nose - brambles, citrus peel and zest. Bright and tasty with raspberry and spice. Not classic Burgundy in my opinion. Citrus and fruit on the finish. Good, but not my style. Combine this with the 96 Bonnes Mares we had for thanksgiving and I'm beginning to think that I don't like the Groffier style. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 4.5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 15/20.
Red
1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
91 points
Mark P's bottle. Peppery (green) and herbal. Some sweet fruit. Sweet and deep. delicious but not 'wow'. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 15.5/20.

Flight 3 (4 notes)

White - Off-dry
2004 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
86 points
Creamy peach, bitter, peach pit. Burly and unresolved. Sweet on the palate, light and airy, like the nose should be. Finish gets bitter again. Not impressive, but not bad. Later showed more lemon and minerals. Nose - 3.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 4/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 0.5/2 = 13/20.
White - Off-dry
1994 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Vendange Tardive France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru AOC
89 points
Dark orange. Smokey, apricots, marmalade, spicy, dried out and concentrated. Salty and dried out on the palate, more smokiness and apricot. Very concentrated - too much. Creamy peach and apricots, but too heavy. This is as big as I remember, but it doesn't have the lift or drive. Clunky. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 4.5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 14.5/20.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2010 Jamesport Vineyards Riesling Late Harvest USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
89 points
Creamy fruit, tropical. Mandarin and Kumquat, mango and Papaya. Very sweet with some acid, but not enough to balance it out quite. Quince and honey. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 4.5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/6 = 14.5/20.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
95 points
Forceful nose of cinnamon and red spices, cane sugar and some heat. Quite burly and potent. Just great on the palate, rich but with good structure and cut. Big, spice, sugar-spicy, brulee. Get even better on the long classic finish - great focus. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/6 = 17.5/20.
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