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Celebration for Bud's Seventieth Birthday

Eketahuna, New Zealand

Tasted June 22, 2013 by Marc with 592 views

Introduction

Pickled Tuna with preserved lemon mousse
"Royal" of wild rabbit and mallard duck liver with green herbs
Makuri trout and nori tempura with mango salad
Wild rice with Brussels sprouts, perennial spinach and onion broth
Ravioli of crayfish with lemongrass and chervil velouté
Carpaccio of cumin-scented Pokai Parera duck breast, sanguette, braised fennel and leek
Venison quinoa with beef reduction and shallot coulis
Degustation of apple

Flight 1 (12 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée France, Champagne
94 points
First rate wine that marries considerable richness and surprising freshness. Very slick winemaking that emphasises harmony. Beautiful layered complexity. Light and fluffy texture that felt like a cloud in the glass.
1 person found this helpful Comments (1)
White - Sparkling
1990 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
91 points
Mature wine of considerable character. Structurally built on its acid. Moderate bead intensity in keeping with its age.Quite aged in character but very complex with it - the acid keeps the wine in focus. Slightly maderised.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
1996 Didier Dagueneau Silex France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
67 points
A huge nose and the taste of canned peas dominates a wine of considerable glycerine. Certainly held too long ( in a very cold cellar) I was unable to finish a glass of this. The body and mouthfeel of the wine certainly alludes to what would have been a spectacular bottle of wine 10 years ago.
White
1994 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
94 points
Beautiful example of aged Riesling with 10 grams per litre of residual sugar. A point at the moment - this bottle enjoyed excellent bottle age character, stunning Riesling varietal fruit, great minerality and a strong acid backbone. The sugar contributes to a lush and opulent finish.
White
2002 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
90 points
Rich aged Chardonnay that was slightly clumsy at the table. Highly oaked with bottle age character and lots of presence in the mouth. The flavours veered towards opulence and tropical flavours that to my taste were slightly unrelieved by the structural elements in the wine. I would call this outstanding but slightly out of balance.
White
2011 Dawson & James Chardonnay Tasmania Australia, Tasmania
88 points
Light Chablis styled wine. That features a sulfite influenced nose that focuses on mineral, herbal and peaty Chardonnay fruit. Crisp and complex. This is light food wine that has excellent class. I called this French - even after seeing the label.
White
1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
97 points
Stunning showing for this bottle that for me further emphasises that Chave Hermitage Blanc is one of the glories of France. At 23 years of age, this is perfect now but shows no sense of needing to be drunk up. It feels ageless and to me, defines harmony. Fat honeysuckle nose and palate with great glycerine depth and some alcoholic heat on the back palate. Close to perfect to me and a wine I would love to revisit in 10-15 years. Note that this wine needed two hours in a decanter to open up. Very youthful colour.
Red
1991 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
94 points
Gorgeous nose, dominated by beautiful floral top notes driven by well judged volatile acidity. On the palate, beautifully harmonious and silken mouthfeel that has clear new oak influence that is integrated. Lovely to drink and apparently one of the successes of the vintage, the wine is undoubtedly outstanding but lacks the requisite multi layered complexity to warrant a higher score - it just lacks a bit of complexity on the palate.
Red
1992 Joseph Phelps Insignia USA, California, Napa Valley
93 points
Still an absolute baby - has the look and nose of a much younger wine. Drunk next to a Pichon Baron 1990, almost the entire table confused the two wines. Once the identities were revealed those people who confused them ( including me) could see the ripeness of the California fruit vs. the green streak of the Bordeaux. This is certainly world class Cabernet that is slightly monolithic but I imagine will develop into a more nuanced wine with further age. Beautiful fruit and immaculate winemaking at work.
Red
1990 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
91 points
Very youthful appearance, ripe and rich with a distinct green edge. Slightly monolithic in nature, this was confused with a Phelps Insignia 1992.... Very well made and I could see this developing more transparency and nuance with more age. 91+ points.
Red
1998 Arnaldo-Caprai Montefalco Sagrantino 25 Anni Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Sagrantino
88 points
Stuck in a time warp, this wine has not budged in evolution in over ten years. Black cherry fruit, tobacco thick tannins - this was the most monolithic wine on the table. For me, this wine will always be chunky and hugely tannic but will also always have impressive fruit power. I would be surprised if this developed to grace but it certainly is a wine of impressive dimension that is crying out for a rich fatty braise. 88+? Points hard to say where this wine is going...
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1990 Château Rieussec France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
92 points
Very mature with great development. Very botrytis and caramel in style that lacks acid cut and felt a little unfocused.
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