Day Five in Burgundy: Bonneau du Martray, Clos de Tart, Faiveley, Niellon

Cote d'Or

Tasted July 5, 2013 by Burgundy Al with 219 views

Flight 1 - Bonneau du Martray (8 notes)

Tasting with Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière, proprietor of Bonneau du Martray, one of my favorite people in Burgundy both for his friendliness and wealth of knowledge. 2012 production might be approximately 25% of the level of a robust vintage and we haven't seen one of those since 2009.

White
2011 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. Peach and ripe apple aromas, lush and forward. More restrained palate with similar fruit that is well balanced by intense minerality and stony character. Long finish. Not quite at the level of the sensational 2007 or 2008 at this early stage in its evolution, but close.
White
2010 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. Seems slightly shut down right now vs when tasted last year, which Jean-Charles confirmed. Apple and pear aromas and flavors. Slightly austere start but finished with abundant energy, balance and finesse.
White
2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. Floral and spice driven start with ripe apple aromas and slightly buttery background note. Very forward and generous right now. Prob close to its peak drinking window. Bottle had been open 2 days.
White
2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. Lush and powerful with butter, rich orchard, stone fruit aromas. At the same time incredibly well textured and nuanced. Long, stony finish. Bottle also open 2 days.
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White
2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. Floral and perfumed start with great spice. More firm, slightly leaner fruit vs the 2008, even seemingly slightly backward and brooding. Also open 2 days. I always enjoy tasting these 2 vintages together and think that will be a great exercise for the next decade or two.
White
2003 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine, bottle had been open 2 days. Lush, almost tropical. Very 2003 character. Big spice, slightly sweet fruit and spice.. Very good density and concentration. starting to show interesting evolution and earthiness in a very charming way.
Red
2011 Bonneau du Martray Corton France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. Fresh red cherry aromas and flavors. Slight spice. Approachable. Elegant for young Corton with moderate length and weight.
Red
2010 Bonneau du Martray Corton France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. Red and black cherry aromas with thyme and tarragon. Same fruit flavors, perhaps slightly more black, also lots of spice. Very powerful and dense, just slightly backward, but with great flashes of energy. 93-94 point potential for me today.

Flight 2 - Domaine du Clos de Tart (2 notes)

I didn't realize quit how late Clos de Tart harvests. It seems they and Laurent Ponsot are typically the last to be done.

Red
2010 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Tasting at Domaine. Approx 45-50% whole cluster. Lots of powerful black cherry aromas to start, with hints of red cherry, blackberry, plum, and a meaty almost Gevrey-like spice. Power and density come through clearly on the palate with lots of the same mix of fruits. Tannins seem a bit assertive to start, then soften through middle and finish, where great spice, acidity and minerality bring great textures and harmony. Long finish. 94-95 point potential for me today.
Red
2002 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
93 points
Tasting at Domaine. Plum and ripe black and red cherry aromas with thyme and cloves. Also quite ripe fruit flavors, surprisingly accessible already today. I certainly wasn't surprised by the wine's great balance and textures. Good for now, already entering its peak drinking window which I expect to go through 2035.

Flight 3 - Faiveley (8 notes)

I will include a handdful of my notes, but these were all 2012 barrel samples and therefore can't really represent the final assemblage for most cuvees.

White
2012 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Rich and intense apple and buttery aromas. Also lush on palate with pristine, polished fruit on finish. East facing parcel really influences the charming "fat content" here. Note that varied new oak treatment of barrels means this won't be fully representative of the final assemblage. Very,very good potential here.
Red
2012 Faiveley Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. From a plot formerly part of Domaine Annick Parent. Black fruit with charming baking spice. Slightly floral. Overall very good fruit, very good balance. Worth seeking out. Note that varied new oak treatment of barrels means this won't be fully representative of the final assemblage.
Red
2012 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Issarts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Tasting, brief note. Dark black cherry on nose and plate coming across as classically Gevrey with some sweet spice on the nose with espresso and dark chocolate hints, then gamy meat on palate. Very good.
Red
2012 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Ripe all-black fruit aromas with some meaty spice. Black fruit again on palate with lots of very elegant structural support. firm right now in barrel, but great potential here. Very impressive. Varied new oak treatment of barrels means this won't be fully representative of the final assemblage.
Red
2012 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine, brief note. All black cherry with very good spice and some animale hints. Very elegant already with lots of energy to complement the fruit, but with the structure to age gracefully.
Red
2012 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Large scaled, powerful and ripe black fruit. Great concentration, with layers of unfolding flavor and nuance. Long and dense finish.
Red
2012 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. My first opportunity to taste this wine from any vintage, this is certainly a show stopper. Very similar to the "regular" Chambertin-Clos de Beze just tasted, with slightly more intensity and sweet fruit. Perhaps a little more forward, but also with greater density. Incredible potential here.
Red
2012 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Black and dense aromatic start with concentrated fruit. Incredible balance for young Corton with really fine structural elements. Very impressive. Varied new oak treatment of barrels means this won't be fully representative of the final assemblage.

Flight 4 - Niellon (7 notes)

Tasting with Michel Coutoux, son-in-law of Michel Niellon.

White
2011 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
Tasting at domaine. Lean, very precise start. Lemon and lemon peel. Picks up weight from middle to finish. Good for its level.
White
2011 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Tasting at domaine. Apple and pear aromas, hint of lemon. slightly floral, good spice aromas as well. Bigger mineral elements, lots of energy particularly on finish. Moderate length. Well balanced. Very good, 90-91 point potential.
White
2011 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroye France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Tasting at domaine. More lean and chiseled than the Champgains with good power and concentration. 88-89 point potential.
White
2011 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Tasting at domaine. Forward fruit aromas and flavors. with good spice contribution. Fresh fruit with very good balance. Also 89-90 point potential.
White
2011 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Tasting at domaine. Amongst the youngest vines in the lineup, most approx 10 years old. Rich and elegant. Slightly less concentration vs other 1er cuvees. Very good finesse with an interesting mint note.
White
2011 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Tasting at domaine. A more concentrated styled wine with great textures, even if not quite as nuanced or finessed as some of the other 1er cuvees.
White
2011 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. White flowers, spice hints, some new oak spice, candied fruit, peach, ripe apple, tropical hints. Incredible elegance. Lots of concentration and textures. 93-95 point potential. wow. My last wine at my last visit for this trip. Nice way to close.