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Rioja and Ribera

Cambio del Tercio

Tasted October 25, 2013 by SimonG with 534 views

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Fortified
N.V. Bodegas Hidalgo Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Viejo Palo Cortado VORS Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
92 points
Mid brown. Quite a nutty brown sugar nose. Less fragrant with some air. Sweet caramel attack and then plenty of bite through the mid-palate. Grip even. Long. Smooth finish. No heat here. Very drinkable. ****

Flight 2 (3 notes)

White
2011 Conde Fabrice de Suyrot El Mussol Spain, Balearic Islands
88 points
Oily, fruity, very fragrant. An extrovert. Presumably a flashy Albariño, though out of context it could be Gewurtztraminer etc. turns out to be Mallorcan Malvasia. Slightly metallic edge to the dry finish. Full, interesting and good, but not my cup of tea. ***
White
1996 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
91 points
Slightly oily, waxy lanolin. Nicely dry after quite a ripe and padded mid-palate. Mid weight. Ripe and rich through the middle. Very decent in a slightly showy manner. ****
White
1991 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
94 points
A heavier, waxy lanolin character on the nose cf the 96 Res. More mineral and linear on the palate, showing a little more age and tradition. Dense. A brooding power. Very mellow and smooth and poised. Lovely. Lots of depth here. Lovely texture too. ****1/2

Flight 3 (3 notes)

Red
1966 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Reserva Especial Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
93 points
Double decanted 2 hrs apparently. A little high toned initially, with a touch of varnish.fresh and nicely polished on the attack. Silky through the middle. Plenty of interest here but not quite in the same league as recent bottles of 62 and 64. My red otn. ****
Red
1964 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
91 points
Fresher, red fruited nose, a little dusty. Brighter palate with a bit of bite. Almost a sense of it needing more time. Still some bite here. Brig acidity too. ****
Red
1973 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
86 points
Nicely beefy, slightly spicy nose. Muddy garnet. Lots of sediment. A touch rustic. Doesn't feel in the best of conditions - maybe a little cooked but probably just the sediment. A pale shadow of how this can be. Not from the Majestic source apparently. Some interest. ***

Flight 4 (3 notes)

Red
1970 Bodegas Franco-Españolas Rioja Cosecha Especial Bordón Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
91 points
Sweet, brightest red fruit, nicely mellow. A touch of vanilla and spice. Quite harmonious. Showing as well as previously. ****
Red
1995 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
92 points
Quite high toned. A bit volatile. Good acidity. A little prickle. Some coconut/vanilla after a while on the nose, but this is quite tight and less forthcoming than a 94 last month. Feels very young. Tight velvet. Needs time. ***(*)
Red
1976 Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva Prado Enea Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
91 points
Full garnet. Silky smooth nose of red fruit, the faintest touch of soy and honey. Mellow and smooth, elegant. Lots of interest but all in a minor key. Starts to thin with air. Losing some padding on the finish and the nose drops off too. This bottle probably better a decade ago. (*)***

Flight 5 (2 notes)

Red
1985 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 3° Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
91 points
Smoky, mellow, smooth. Lovely texture. Tightly/densely silky. Still good acidity and a bit of bite on the finish. Tending towards the international. ****
Red
1996 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
90 points
Denser, slightly darker on the nose cf the 85. Dense and chewy. High acidity. Tannin too I think, and more so than the fruit. Hmm. **(*1/2)?

Flight 6 (3 notes)

Red
1999 Pago de Carraovejas Ribera del Duero Reserva Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
82 points
Volatile, slightly rubbery nose. A bit rubbery, high toned, disjointed, dry. Really not too pleasant. Dry tannins have overtaken the slightly confused fruit on the finish. Not for me. Bare ** with the right food.
Red
2001 Bodegas y Viñedos Alión Ribera del Duero Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
88 points
Some similarities with the rubbery 03, though whereas one was down wind of that, we're slightly upwind here. Reasonable balance, a pinch of raspberry fruit, but I think this is going through a phase - a couple of bottles in 2006 were so much nicer. ***
Red
2003 Bodegas y Viñedos Alión Ribera del Duero Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
87 points
Curious dark, stinky nose. South African rubber from the bad old days. Blue black fruit. Smooth, a touch jammy. Thick. This should be labelled Malbec. Ribena is cheaper. Again, this could show reasonably with the right food, but coming at the end of an evening of mature Rioja is doing this no favours. ***

Flight 7 (1 note)

White - Fortified
N.V. Harveys Jerez-Xérès-Sherry 30 Year Old Pedro Ximénez VORS Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
91 points
PX! Not quite a viscous, dense and demanding as an EN La Bota, but a little more so than the very drinkable Casa Inca bottlings. Sweet (surprise!), typical caramel and liquid Christmas pud.mid viscosity. Long. ****
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