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1989 Barolo and Barbaresco Single Blind

I Trulli Restaurant, NYC

Tasted January 15, 2014 by kenv with 670 views

Introduction

A fine group of Nebbiolo lovers got together to taste fourteen 1989 Barolos and two 1989 Barbarescos single blind. By single blind, I mean that I knew almost all the wines that would be served, but I had no idea of the order.

I Trulli did a terrific job with the food.
http://www.itrulli.com/

Photos and some additional commentary can be found on my website:
http://www.finewinegeek.com/tn/2014-01-15_Barolo1989_iTrulli/

Flight 1 - Flight 1: Barbaresco and Barolo. (4 notes)

Antipasti Misti: Small Plates Typical to the Langhe Hills including Carne Cruda, Polenta with Wild Mushrooms, Vitello Tonnato.

Red
1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
93 points
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Red fruit and mushroom nose. Bright red fruit in the mouth. Harmonious tannins. Really shines with the apps.
Red
1989 Roagna Barbaresco Riserva Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
83 points
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Gorgeous, aromatic nose of bright red fruits and a woodsy undertone. Dry and tannic in the mouth. Quite rustic and short. Very disappointing considering the nose.
Red
1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
[Double-decanted around 1pm.] Quite muted nose of red fruit and fruit cake. Tannic with tart cherries. Could use more time or air.
Red
1989 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
flawed
Corked.

Flight 2 - Flight 2: Wines from Monforte. (4 notes)

Gnocchi: Potato Dumplings in Fonduta.

Red
1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Vigna Cicala Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
[Double-decanted around 1pm.] Backward, tannic, tart. Black fruits. Needed more air.
Red
1989 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
[Double-decanted around 1pm.] Sweet blackberry perfumed nose. Stunning sweetness. Still quite tannic and acidic, but the fruit wins out.
Red
1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Black fruit. Tannic, but harmonious. Still quite young. Gorgeous sweet black fruit and fruit cake in the nose. so I thought this might have been the Giacosa. One of the wines of the night for me.
Red
1989 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Riserva Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
94 points
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Others picked up oaky notes, but I did not. Striking black fruit nose. Excellent structure. Classic 1989. Long finish. Modern in style. I really enjoyed this. If I didn't know there was no Gaja Sperss here, I would have guessed that's what this was.

Flight 3 - Flight 3: Wines from Castiglione Falletto (4 notes)

Brasato al Barolo: Short Rib of Beef Braised in Barolo Wine.

Red
1989 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
flawed
Corked. Not served.
Red
1989 Vietti Barolo Rocche Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
[Double-decanted around 1pm.] Muted nose. Sweet fruit and tannins on the palate. A tasty wine. Still has a ways to go.
Red
1989 Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
94 points
[Double-decanted around noon.] Rustic and tannic. Tart red fruit. Needs a lot more time. Structured with hints of sandalwood, black berries, and tar. Potentially 96 points.
Red
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
flawed
Sadly corked. Not extremely so, but corked.

Flight 4 - Flight 4: Wines from Serralung and Barolo (4 notes)

Formaggi: Fontina and Toma, with Maraschino Mostarda (a condiment made of candied Marasca cherries and a mustard flavored syrup).

Red
1989 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
96 points
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Big black fruit licorice nose. A big sweet wine in the mouth, with loads of chocolaty tannins, licorice and violets. Quite young, but clearly great. Probably WOTN and with another 2 decades of life ahead.
Red
1989 Cascina Bruni Barolo Vigna Batistot Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
[Opened at 6pm.] Gorgeous black fruit and spice. Sweet in the mouth. A beautiful wine from a producer I had not heard of before.
Red
1989 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Stunning bright fruit. Medicinal in a good way. Complex and silky. A terrific wine at its peak. Perhaps the biggest surprise of the evening for me.
Red
1989 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Riserva Brunate Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
97 points
[Double-decanted around noon.] OMFG. Dark fruit in a haunting nose. A stunningly youthful wine with complex black fruit and great length. Neck and neck with the first wine in this flight for WOTN. This wine will continue to improve for at least a decade and drink well for at least a decade more. Wow. What a great way to finish the evening!

Closing

My second 1989 tasting in recent times. The best wines are so great, but there is always a lot of bottle variation.

You can find Greg dal Piaz's notes on this tasting here:
http://www.snooth.com/articles/piedmont-ys-greatest-vintage/

And Eric Guido's notes here:
http://theviptable.blogspot.com/2014/01/1989-barolo-retrospective.html

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