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Another night of Italian wines with friends

Downtown Cleveland

Tasted May 25, 2014 by Loren Sonkin with 511 views

Introduction

Last night my wife and I joined three other couples at a local restaurant for dinner. It was a great chance for some of our friends to meet each other and enjoy an amazing meal and wines. We put ourselves in the chefs hands, and they kept bringing out dish after dish, one more interesting than the next. Lots of attention to local; they actually have a forager on staff who goes out collecting the odd plant. Food was amazing, service was perfect, but the highlight was spending time with friends. Thanks to all especially the restaurant staff for putting up with us, providing stemware and dealing with 4 vegetarians, 3 omnivores and a vegan in a spectacular way. As for the wines:

Flight 1 - Italian Sparklers (2 notes)

It was a gorgeous evening in Cleveland. Sunny, temps around 70F. The rooftop bar was open, so we took our bottles, and went up. Music playing from a band down the street, lots of conversation. One of those great moments that just seem perfect with friends. No food, the wines were refreshing and stimulating.

White - Sparkling
N.V. Ciù Ciù Altamarea Vino Spumante Brut Marche IGT Italy, Marche, Marche IGT
88 points
This is nice, but not great. Light golden in color. Nice froth, medium bubbles. The nose has a bit of hay. With air, a lemon peel note emerges. Crips and easy to drink. I wouldn't mind a bit more acidity. Refreshing though and a great way to start the day. At $20, this is fairly priced.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. La Valle Franciacorta Franciacorta Brut Rosé Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG
90 points
This is very nice. Deep salmon pink in color. Lots of small bubbles. The nose is very interesting. First a whiff of cinnamon. Then blood oranges, and finally a pleasant waxy note. Nice full bodied mouth feel with some depth. More substantial than the Ciu Ciu sparkling wine. There is some complexity as well with a nice citrusy note on the palate. Nice acidity. Long finish. On a roof top bar at the end of a gorgeous weather day, it didn't get any better.

Flight 2 - Sangiovese Flight (3 notes)

Back down to the table. A series of dishes with ingredients I never had before or in ways I have never seen prepared. I need to take better food notes. A reminder of how versatile Sangiovese can be with food.

Red
2006 Piancornello Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
90 points
Out of Magnum. Actually drinking better than I thought, but certainly could use more time. Ruby/purple in color. The nose has cherries, dust and chocolate (makes me wonder about Merlot). Very nice, but did start to shut down with air. On the palate, this is really nice. Cherries, more chocolate notes. It is round and could use a bit more acidity. Worked well with food.
Red
2004 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
92 points
This is drinking quite well, but no hurry. Purple in color (which I find unusual for Sangiovese). The nose has dust, black cherries, black pepper, and licorice. Full bodied. Still plenty of tannins on the palate. Great black cherry fruit. This is a "modern" styled BdM. That said, it is an outstanding wine. Nice acidity. Went well with our array of food.
Red
2004 Fattoria Petrolo Torrione Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
91 points
Funny, this seemed more like Brunello than the actual BdM wines in the flight. It is 100% Sangiovese. Ruby/purple in color. The nose has cherries, truffles, dust and slight floral notes. Medium bodied. Nice acidity. On the palate, this has some complexity. I don't know how much better it gets as it seems mature. Tannins are all integrated. Nice cherry fruit left with a bit of forest floor and dried tea. Very food friendly.

Flight 3 - Nebbiolo blend flight (3 notes)

This dinner was well timed for many reasons, not the least is that many of the wines needed to be opened and enjoyed. This was an interesting flight and a style of wine that I don't drink often.

Red
1998 Elio Altare L'Insieme Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola
92 points
From Magnum. I believe this a blend of Nebbiolo, Cab, and few others. Ruby in color. The nose is very nice with cherries, slight funk, a bit of dried roses and earth. On the palate, the fruit is alive, but this tastes older (not in a bad way). Layers of dried fruits, some cherries, forest floor and spice. Nicely balanced. I would drink these sooner than later. Food friendly. Really a nice experience and a different wine.
Red
2000 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Monferrato Pin Italy, Piedmont, Monferrato
90 points
This is a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet. Purple/ruby in color. The nose has black raspberries, cigar box, dried wood and damp earth. Slightly dusty as well. On the palate, I was expecting a bit more complexity given the age and varietals. There is some and it has some depth too. Black cherries and black raspberries still there. Medium acidity. It is food friendly. I think a bit past peak, but not much. Another interesting wine.
Red
1999 Domenico Clerico Langhe Arte Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
92 points
This was a last minute addition. I saw it in the cellar and thought it would fit. A blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cab I think. I might have liked this more than the group. Cherries, licorice, dried flowers and spice on the nose. Good acidity. Medium bodied. This has more complexity to me than the other wines. Probably at peak or just past. Lots of layers of cherries, dried cherries, and saddle leather flavors with a bit of an earthiness. Good acidity. Food friendly. Improved a bit with air.

Flight 4 - Barolo flight (2 notes)

I love Barolo. Some more serious dishes were out now. 30 day filet for the carnivores, mushroom pasta and a bunch of other dishes. Again, these Barolos needed to be opened and shared.

Red
1999 Silvio Grasso Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
This is really a pretty wine. In a great place. A very feminine wine. Ruby in color. The nose has cherries, dried flowers, dried fruits, leather and dried tea bags. Medium bodied. Layers of complexities with cherries both fresh and dried. Mature and at peak IMO. It won't get any better and I would drink these sooner than later. But tonight, this bottle is excellent. Nice acidity. Food friendly.
Red
2000 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
91 points
I am not sure if this was a proper bottle, but I think whatever was going on just needed air. At first I wondered about mild TCA, then some other funk, but eventually this settled in and was a very nice Barolo. Ruby in color. With air, the wine offers up cherries, dried roses, some dried wood and some dried fruits. Complex and layered on the palate. This is fully mature, at or slightly past prime as well. Deep and interesting, it kept evolving in the glass as the fruit went from fresh to dried. Nice acidity. Food friendly.

Flight 5 - Dessert (3 notes)

The arrays of desserts were spectacular. As so often happens, the desert wines were the WOTN and worked well. When I didn't think I could take one more bite or sip, I kept going any way. Certainly over indulgence, but that's ok once in a while.

White - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Castello della Paneretta Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
92 points
This was a new one for me. From 375. Iced tea in color. The nose has burnt sugar, orange peel, and tea. Very nice. Viscous. It could use a bit more acidity. Great mouth feel. On the palate, candied orange rinds and spices with an underlying note of light molasses. Really enjoyable. Worked well with foods as well.
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White - Sweet/Dessert
1999 Fontodi Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
94 points
I thought this was the WOTN. In a great place. Dark brown in color. The nose is toffee, coffee, burnt orange peel and figs. Full bodied. On the palate, layers of figs, orange peel, brown sugar and spice. Nicely balanced. Good acidity. Seems like this should live forever but probably at least another 5 to 10. Wonderful wine.
Spirits
N.V. Tremontis Mirto Italy, Sardinia, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
90 points
This was very interesting. It is a fortified spirit made from the Myrtle berry in Sardinia. 30% Alcohol. Dark red in color. The nose has mint, maybe some eucalyptus and also a Gin quality (is that juniper berries?). Slightly bitter and there is some heat, but both are more charming than off putting. Certainly more for sipping, but seemed to fit nicely as a digestive at the end of the meal. A nice treat to try.

Closing

Another great evening. A win-win for everyone IMO and I hope all of the attendees felt the same way. One of those nights that makes one feel truly blessed. Until our next time...

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