Rotating Dinner Series- A tour of 2001 Barolo
Osteria Langhe, Chicago IL
Tasted October 27, 2014 by KeithAkers with 500 views
Introduction
After a year and a half, it was my turn again to host a Rotating Dinner Series event. We have yet to have a real Italian focus for a dinner, so I wanted to make sure that we did that and that I did it right. I wanted to have a dual focus going on. On one hand, I wanted to show off the range of Barolo and that the crus do matter. On the flip side, I wanted to show off the differences between traditional and modern Barolo. It's a dichotomy that can't be ignored, so why ignore it?
I had known my theme for a good while, so I also wanted to make sure we had a proper venue for it. So, Osteria Langhe was the first place that came to my mind as Piemonte wines deserve Piemonte food.
Flight 1 - Opening Bubbly (1 note)
Taste: Medium bodied with medium+ acidity. The acidity is very refreshing, but it is noticeable too with pears, red apples, brioche, yeasty tones, biscuits, and some white florals on the back end.
Overall: This was drinking very well. There was a freshness to it with excellent balance. This can certainly develop further, but it is very attractive right now.
Flight 2 - Barolo Blends and Barolo Cru (4 notes)
Taste: Medium bodied with medium/high acidity and chewy tannins. The structure shows off its youth, but there is a pretty and feminine side with strawberries, rose petals, tar, red cherries, earth, and some red fruits on the back end.
Overall: This was surprisingly open given the producer and vintage. This showed off a real femininity and nuance that will show even better with more age.
Taste: Medium/full bodied with medium/high acidity and chewy tannins. The structure is very youthful and on the dense side right now. Beneath the structure lie dark red cherries, some woody notes, licorice, star anise, tar, and a touch of leather tones.
Overall: This was definitely different from the Bartolo Mascarello. It showed off a greater intensity and the modern influence. The oak hasn't absorbed yet, though it isn't the dominant tone on the nose and palate.
Taste: Full bodied with medium/high acidity and youthful tannins. The structure is definitely on the young side, but it isn't too overpowering. Though the structure is more taught there is a quiet intensity with red cherries, red berries, roasted herbs, tar, rose petals, cinnamon, and some spice notes.
Overall: This was showing very well. It had a slight intense side to it, but was very expressive and perfumed as well. This felt like it was starting to drink, but it can certainly age a lot longer.
Flight 3 - La Morra and Castiglione Falletto (4 notes)
Taste: Medium bodied with high acidity and chewy tannins. The structure is youthful, coarse, and a bit overwhelming at the moment. Even with the structure being imposing, there is a really pretty side with rose petals, violets, red cherries, roasted herbs, dark red berries, and some incense on the back end.
Overall: This felt like it could be in a valley stage. This is the kind of wine that will require serious attention and thought when it fully matures as there is a lot of nuance that will emerge in time.
Taste: Medium/full bodied with medium/high acidity and silky, but firm tannins. There is a plushness to the feel, but possessing a very savory character too with red cherries, red berries, roasted herbs, rose petals, and a bit of wild flowers poking through.
Overall: This, to me, was modern done right. This isn't trying to be a wolf in sheep's clothing as there is a sleekness to it, but it also retains a gorgeous savory character that makes you pay attention to what it has to say. This was very expressive while still showing off the modern techniques and influences.
Taste: Medium bodied with high acidity and punishing tannins. The structure is giving the finger to us and asking: why did you open me? Even with that being said, there is real beauty beneath with strawberries, tar, roasted herbs, hi-toned floral notes, some earth, and a good bit of violets on the back end.
Overall: This bottle of Monprivato was a very fickle mistress. It showed us something great in the briefest of glimpses, but this was not the night for this to shine its brightest. This feels like it needs another 10 years of sleep before it really kicks into gear.
Taste: Medium/full bodied with high acidity and very chewy tannins. The structure is a bit unyielding, but that doesn't hide the class of dark red cherries, licorice, tar, anise, roasted herbs, dark red fruits, strawberries, and some incense on the back end. This had the classic starting lighter on the attack and exploding on the back end.
Overall: As good as this was, this can get better. The depth and class is there, but the structure was holding it back a bit.
Flight 4 - Serralunga and Monforte (4 notes)
Taste: Medium/full bodied with medium/high acidity and chewy tannins. The structure is fairly imposing, but there is a lot of class and depth underneath with dark red cherries, tar, white truffles, red fruits, roasted herbs, and incense.
Overall: This was gorgeous and young at the same time. There is an understated power behind it with a lot of complexity. This will get better and I would love to see where this is in another 10 years.
Taste: Medium/full bodied with big chewy tannins and high acidity. The structure is extremely youthful and noticeable with licorice, dark red cherries, strawberries, tar, roses, roasted herbs, and some incense.
Overall: Though the structure is showing off the youth of the wine, there is real class and elegance to this with a lot of depth. This can and will get even better from here.
Taste: Medium/full bodied with medium/high acidity and chewy tannins. The structure is very youthful, but it isn't too overpowering at the moment. Though there is some youth to the structure, there is power and class beneath with dark red berries, red fruits, red cherries, strawberries, roasted herbs, tar, and some tobacco.
Overall: I would love to see where this goes. While it isn't closed up, it isn't showing everything it's capable of.
Taste: Full bodied with medium/high acidity and chewy tannins. The structure is certainly there, but it isn't too potent. There is a robust and powerful side to it beneath the structure with dark red fruits, dark red cherries, licorice, tobacco, earth, and a hint of oak on the back end.
Overall: This felt like it was somewhat open. It still needs some more time to fully come together, but it is showing relatively well at this time.
Closing
I was worried that the wines would be grumpy on the whole. More than a few people that I respect have made this observation. To combat this (as best I could), I made sure to give all of the wines at least a 6 hour double decant. While that didn't completely do the trick, it most certainly helped significantly.
To boot, Osteria Langhe was absolutely fantastic. Aldo rolled out the red carpet for us and everyone there did a killer job in every other department. I knew the food was going to be good and they more than surpassed my expectations.