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Touring Andalucia

Tasted March 24, 2016 - April 2, 2016 by DK Amateur with 352 views

Introduction

This trip took us from Malaga over Baeza and Aracena to Sevilla, Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, bringing us through the olive country in Jaén, the Jabugo ham dehesa and the sherry district. A gastronomic highlight was the dinner at ** Aponiente. I am afraid that my notes are somewhat sloppy or even non-existent; and this is why I have added som explanations to retain a memory of what we had.

Flight 1 - Miscellaneous (7 notes)

We had a number of good meals, not always accompanied by wine.

White
2012 Bodegas Matarromera Verdejo 25 aniversario Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
Rich oaky Rueda with good structure and aromas of bergamot and citrus, very good.
Red
2011 Bodegas Baigorri Rioja Crianza Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
Dark juicy modern Rioja with some minerality and even a hint of the classic Rioja cellar mold.
Red
2014 Bodegas Fuentespina Ribera del Duero Roble Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Easy-drinking and very nice Ribera, still showing good substance.
Red
2012 Pago de Carraovejas Ribera del Duero Crianza Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Dense and intense Ribera with saturated dark fruit. Impressive. 15%.
White - Fortified
N.V. Barbadillo Solear Manzanilla Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tasted several times on this tour, it never failed to please. This epitome of manzanilla combines freshness and age, fire and coolness, lightness and intensity. Salt, mineral and oystery. Just love it!
White
N.V. Bodegas Diaz Condado de Huelva 1955 Condado palido Spain, Andalucía, Condado de Huelva
This fino sherry style 15 % wine was very nice and a pleasure to drink with the Jabugo ibérico 100 % bellota ham of Eíriz. It had a slight eucalyptus note which set it apart from sherry from Jerez.
White
2015 Barbadillo Palomino Fino Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz Castillo de San Diego Spain, Andalucía, Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz
Light and downright cheap, this white wine produced in considerable quantities by sherry producer Barbadillo, is quite respectable, showing good balance, freshness and moderate alcohol. Tasted at the bodega and the same day in restaurant El faro de El Puerto.

Flight 2 - Aponiente restaurant (3 notes)

Angel Leon's 2 star restaurant Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa Maria is possibly the most extreme fish restaurant in the world. Nearly everything served (except for bread, butter and olive oil) comes from the sea, and he seems to favour a deep and intense fish taste. We had the 20+ course meal called "Mar de Leva" and chose the accompanying wine menu which consisted of 80 % sherry. I only have proper notes on a few of the 12 wines which tended to be out of the ordinary and included many of the new (to me) category of "en rama" sherries, i.e. wines which are bottled unfiltered and thus tend to be more unstable (apparently they don't travel) and possibly richer. Among the other noteworthy drinks were Lustau's delicious vermouth produced on a sherry basis, a champagne from J.-M. Séleque, and a magnificent more than 50 years old palo cortado from Gutíerrez Colosía which was even more aromatic and wild than the Cruz Vieja amontillado; it was served after the Cruz Vieja amontillado and was followed by what appeared to be a special bottling of Hidalgo's oloroso en rama VORS "El Faraón", which had phenomenal notes of orange and smoke in a taut style.

White - Fortified
N.V. Gutierrez Colosia Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Fino En Rama Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
Dusty and almond-like, with citrus and salt - lots of character.
White - Fortified
N.V. Bodegas Faustino González Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Cruz Vieja Amontillado en Rama Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
(Aponiente) The nose somehow reminded me of warm cardboard. It showed eucalyptus and medicine too. Painfully intense. Fantastic wine.
White - Fortified
N.V. El Maestro Sierra Pedro Ximénez PX Viejísimo Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
(Aponiente) Extraordinarily thick even for a PX and especially given its 10.5 %. Wonderful end to a great meal.

Flight 3 - Two bodega visits (4 notes)

We visited Lustau in Jerez and Barbadillo in Sanlúcar and tasted 9-10 wines in each winery. My notes from Lustau diverge somewhat from what I wrote about the same wines at a sherry dinner in Denmark in June 2014. All wines were good and only the highlights are noted here.

White - Fortified
N.V. Emilio Lustau Jerez-Xérès-Sherry 30 Years Old Amontillado VORS Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
(At the Lustau Bodega) A wild wine: Salt, mineral, edgy and dusty. Notes of licorice and sal ammoniac. High acidity. And very tasty!
White - Fortified
2015 Barbadillo Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda solear en rama, Saca de Otono Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda
(At the Barbadillo bodega) Seems less fresh and more marked by higher alcohols than the Solear manzanilla; I prefer the latter.
White - Fortified
N.V. Barbadillo Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Amontillado Principe de Barbadillo Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
(At the Barbadillo bodega) Caramel, medicine and dust in the nose. Completely dry and overall very convincing; it proves that there is a house style to the Barbadillo wines, of consistently tightly structured wines.
White - Fortified
N.V. Barbadillo Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Obispo Gascon Palo Cortado Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
(At the Barbadillo bodega) Aromas of flor, orange and smoke in a creamy texture with notes of sea salt. Fantastic, endless aftertaste.
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