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Chardonnay Shootout

Chez Kailin - Northbrook IL

Tasted May 31, 2016 by Burgundy Al with 450 views

Introduction

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Judgment at Paris we compared US Chardonnay vs white Burgundy in two flights.

Flight 1 - Sparkling Rose to Start (2 notes)

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Jean Laurent Champagne Brut Rosé France, Champagne
Ken says this bottle was at least 10 years old, and that showed. Mature, slightly madeirized in a funky, slightly unpleasant way.
Rosé - Sparkling
2012 Schramsberg Vineyards Brut Rosé USA, California, North Coast
90 points
Some apple but mostly red berry on nose and palate. Moderate concentration with some toasted bread on finish. Crisp and nicely balanced. Served blind, I thought this was from Champagne.

Flight 2 - Post-2010 Younger Chardonnay (6 notes)

White
2012 Ceritas Chardonnay Pinnacle Vineyard USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
91 points
Tasted blind in young Chardonnay flight. Orchard fruit throughout with floral notes. Moderate weight and nunace. Well balanced. Easy to enjoy. I mistakenly thought this was from Burgundy.
White
2013 Aubert Chardonnay CIX Estate Vineyard USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
93 points
Tasted blind in young Chardonnay flight. Very ripe with intense stone and tropical fruit and fragrant, sweet spice. Borderline sweet, but with with the structure to retain balance. Very long, powerful. Excellent now, I'd imagine this will be best in its youth. Easy to ID as from New World.
White
2011 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
87 points
Tasted blind in young Chardonnay flight. Ultra ripe and very tropical. Very good fruit concentration, just a little too much mango and pronounced new oak. Some heat on finish. Easy to ID as from New World.
White
2011 Domaine Dublère Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
91 points
Tasted blind in young Chardonnay flight. Apple and lemon with elegant textures. Moderate power, very well balanced. Very good now. Easy to ID as Burgundy.
White
2012 Paul Lato Chardonnay East of Eden Pisoni Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
92 points
Tasted blind in young Chardonnay flight. Lemon and apple with some tropical hints, but a strong mineral and acid driven edge, most notably on finish. Good power, density and overall balance. This was the most difficult wine in the flight for me to identify as either New or Old World. I liked it more than most others at the tasting tonight.
White
2012 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Tasted blind in young Chardonnay flight. A very odd wine, quite possibly slightly off. Dark color for its youth. Ripe fruit that was tasty enough, with a fresh herb character that some others at the tasting found to be weed-like. A slightly herbaceous, bitter finish. I'd think this 86-87 points tonight, but don't think it a correct bottle.

Flight 3 - 1976 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay on its Own (1 note)

White
1976 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay USA, California, Napa Valley
91 points
Served blind between flights. Nicely mature, elegant madeirized notes. Very good density and lots of fruit still coming through ripe and clear and fun. Got darker and shorter with more air. I thought this from Burgundy. What a treat given the evening's "Judgment at Paris" theme, so thank you, Magnum Man!
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Flight 4 - Pre-2010 Older Chardonnay (6 notes)

White
2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Tasted blind in pre-2010 Chardonnay flight. Fully mature orchard fruit with good concentration, but mostly oxidized, well past where this wine from a good vintage should be today. Consistent with most other bottles from the past few years, perhaps ever-so-slightly better.
White
2007 Peter Michael Chardonnay Mon Plaisir USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
87 points
Tasted blind in pre-2010 Chardonnay flight. Easy to ID as New World. Ripe stone fruit with very good weight, but one dimensional.
White
2009 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
92 points
Tasted blind in pre-2010 Chardonnay flight. Lemon and lemon peel. Starts floral, restrained middle, lush towards finish, but minerality at the very end with an expanding finish showing good spice. Very tasty.
White
2006 Peter Michael Chardonnay Belle Côte USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
Tasted blind in pre-2010 Chardonnay flight. A very peculiar wine that I had trouble deciding if I liked or hated. Ripe and almost sweet, this has too much RS to be really savory. But it has great concentration and great fruit with unctuous textures. This was the group's favorite of the flight, but I just couldn't fully agree. Very easy to identify as New World.
White
2004 Peter Michael Chardonnay Point Rouge USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
86 points
Tasted blind in pre-2010 chardonnay flight. Extremely rip and sweet, this came across as hot and sloppy on the finish. Some thought it needs more time, but I think time is its enemy with the protruding alcohol.
White
2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
93 points
Tasted blind in pre-2010 Chardonnay flight. Orchard fruit with lemon and lime, then a trace hint of peach in middle. Moderately ripe, very minerally throughout. Easy to identify as Old World. My favorite wine of both flights, which oddly the group ranked #5/6 in this flight.
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Flight 5 - Post Chardonnay (2 notes)

White - Fortified
1907 D'Oliveiras Madeira Malvazia Reserva Portugal, Madeira
96 points
Figs, candied orange peel and some marmalade with toasted almonds. Perfect harmony and subtle sweetness that seems to make this even more energetic. I remember when Ken bought this bottle last year in Beaune, of all places. I believe he had opened this bottle approx one week earlier.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
93 points
Intense dried apricot with some tropical fruit and candied citrus peel. Very good concentration, but a elegant texture and weight that keeps this from seeming heavy or too sweet. Also open a week+.
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