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Monday Cellar Visits in Burgundy - Clos de Tart, Lambrays, Bonneau du Martray and Perrot-Minot
Cote d'Or
Tasted June 27, 2016 by Burgundy Al with 784 views
Flight 1 - Domaine des Lambrays (3 notes)
Tasting with Thierry Brouin, hopefully not my last before he retires next year.
Red
2014 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
Tasting at the domaine. 100% whole cluster, 50% new oak. Dense ripe black and red cherry aromas and flavors. Spice aromas most exciting, more restrained on palate. Sweet tannins, already well integrated and balanced. This should drink well on the younger side, perhaps from as early as 2020. 92-93 point potential.
Red
2015 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
Barrel tasting at the domaine. Ripe and very concentrated. Black berry and cherry with fresh meat notes and braised meat spice, making it seem almost Gevrey-like to me. Very long, powerful finish, very exciting potential here.
Red
1998 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
90 points
Tasting at the domaine. Served to us blind. Seemed very firm and structured with slightly backward red and black fruit, making me think this from 1996. Good balance. Good overall.
Flight 2 - Clos de Tart (1 note)
My first cellar visit and tasting with new régisseur Jacques Devauges. Following the normal walk in front of the vineyards and through the facility, we had the great opportunity to not only taste the expected final 2015 composition from across all parcels, but then also taste individually three of the parcels. all of those notes are included below.
Red
2015 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
First, the TN for the expected composed wine from all parcels. Black and red cherry aromas and flavors with savory spice and spring floral hints. Spice most prominent on the expanding finish. Very concentrated. 95-96 point potential.
TN on parcel from young vines. 95% ML complete. Bright red fruit, very bright and precocious. Moderate concentration. New oak not fully absorbed.
TN on parcel from the oldest vines located near Lambrays with little topsoil. ML complete. Slightly austere red fruit start with lots of flowers and spice. Alluring aromas. Huge concentration, but also elegant with delicate textures. Wow.
TN on parcel from higher on the slope near Bonnes Mares. ML complete. Broad and brawny with lots of floral, spice and black fruit. Firm and meaty textures with mouth puckering tannins right now.
TN on parcel from young vines. 95% ML complete. Bright red fruit, very bright and precocious. Moderate concentration. New oak not fully absorbed.
TN on parcel from the oldest vines located near Lambrays with little topsoil. ML complete. Slightly austere red fruit start with lots of flowers and spice. Alluring aromas. Huge concentration, but also elegant with delicate textures. Wow.
TN on parcel from higher on the slope near Bonnes Mares. ML complete. Broad and brawny with lots of floral, spice and black fruit. Firm and meaty textures with mouth puckering tannins right now.
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Flight 3 - Bonneau du Martray (4 notes)
Tasting with Jean-Charles is always one of the highlights of visiting Burgundy, giving me a chance to discuss recent vintages in Corton-Charlemagne, as well as taste a few recent vintages.
White
2014 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Tasting at domaine. Forward floral start. Ripe apple and lemon custard with some faint stone fruit aromas. Mineral textures start-to-finish. Powerful, long finish. Better already vs when tasted 3 months ago. Very good+With 93-95 point potential.
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White
2013 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Tasting at the domaine. Floral and spice start with Apple and pear. Similar flavors, just less forthcoming or intense. Bright mineral textures with nice spice finish. Very good.
White
2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Tasting at the domaine. Very ripe Apple and peach immediately following by a fine degree of minerality and acidity that provides restraint and textural energy. Comes together as a refined wine despite the ripeness. In fact I get the identical crunchy minerality here as in the 2013 just tasted, despite this being a very different package.
White
1987 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
90 points
Served to us blind at the domaine. Popped and poured. Slightly musty start, which quickly dissipated, so we knew this was easily 10+ yo. Baked apple, subtle spice, moderate weight. So I thought this fro a less ripe or famous vintage. I was thinking 1993 when Jean-Charles told us 1987. I should have known...I tasted the exact same wine at the domaine last year!
Flight 4 - Domaine Perrot-Minot (10 notes)
My first ever tasting with at Domaine Perrot-Minot with Christophe Perrot-Minot. 2014 yields were a healthy 35 hl/ha. Made with 80% whole cluster for the wines Premier Cru and above, including the NSG Villages, which is composed of 1er Cru grapes. A slightly lower percentage of new oak vs when I most recently tasted a wide cross-section of these wines, which was almost ten years ago.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambolle-Musigny
Tasting at the domaine. 40% Combe d'Orveau 1er and 60% Bussieres. Bright red cherry aromas and flavors with very good concentration for its level. Fruit driven start, texturally driven finish really shows Chambolle nicely. Bright with subtle spice. Impressive.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix
90 points
Tasting at the domaine. dark cherries galore with some red cherry hints. Asian five spice throughout. Elegant textures as well that I really enjoy. Moderate length and power. Very good Villages level wine.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes
91 points
Tasting at the domaine. Black and red cherry with 1er Cru density. Baking spice in a slight Vosne character that comes from these northern NSG vineyards. Elegant middle, then good weight and power on finish with good length.
20% Murgers, 20% Cras, 60% Richemone, so this could be labeled as Premier Cru, but Christophe labels it as Villages since it doesn't express unique terroir, just the cross-section of northern NSG.
20% Murgers, 20% Cras, 60% Richemone, so this could be labeled as Premier Cru, but Christophe labels it as Villages since it doesn't express unique terroir, just the cross-section of northern NSG.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru La Riotte
Tasting at the domaine. The only wine that seemed reductive today. This was tough to assess and might come across as backward in its youth. Very lacy textures on finish that I liked a lot.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d'Orveau Cuvée Ultra Vieilles Vignes
Tasting at the domaine. Approximately 50 yo vines, mostly/ all (?) with millerandage. Red berry aromas and nicely floral with savory herbs and spice. Similar flavors with lots of minerally textures, wonderful concentration, and some currently firm tannins. Powerful, long finish. Cellarworthy, 92-93 point potential. I prefer this over the next Ultra cuveee from NSG Richemone.
No longer producing the d'Orveau VV cuvee to eliminate confusion with this Ultra cuvee. Grapes from prior d'Orveau going into Chambolle VV.
No longer producing the d'Orveau VV cuvee to eliminate confusion with this Ultra cuvee. Grapes from prior d'Orveau going into Chambolle VV.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru La Richemone Vignes Centenaires
Tasting at the domaine. Planted in 1902, average vine age approx 80 yo. Cross-section of black and red fruit with baking spice that comes across as bolder and brawnier vs the Chambolle d'Orveau Ultra, but less texturally exciting or nuanced. I prefer the Orveau.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin
Tasting at the domaine. Black and red cherry aromas with meaty character and braised meat spice. Similar flavors with very good length and harmony already. I prefer this over the more firm/backward Mazoyeres. 92-93 point potential.
Christophe had an interesting analogy comparing Charmes to Mazoyeres in a similar manner to Beze compared to Chambertin.
Christophe had an interesting analogy comparing Charmes to Mazoyeres in a similar manner to Beze compared to Chambertin.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Mazoyères-Chambertin
Tasting at the domaine. All black fruit with roast meat and animale. Tannic textures and muscular throughout. I preferred the Charmes over this cuvee. Christophe had an interesting analogy comparing Charmes to Mazoyeres in a similar manner to Beze compared to Chambertin.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Tasting at the domaine. Black fruit and concentrated on both nose and palate with more spice flavors than aromas. This combines excellent density with balance and elegance. Excellent 94-96 point potential. Perhaps one small notch better for me over the Chambertin, certainly for now, possibly the long-term. Both from Damoy fruit.
Red
2014 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambertin
Tasting at the domaine. Black fruit again, with even greater concentration than Chambertin-Clos de Beze. Less spice or nuance, less finesse, but very powerful. Also from Damoy fruit. Very good+ 93-95 point potential. This will take more time to integrate and show its full potential than the Beze.