2011 White Burgundy tasting at the Magnum Society
Wellington, NZ
Tasted January 20, 2017 by HowardNZ with 339 views
Introduction
A tasting of six 2011 white Burgundies at the Magnum Society. Thirty four attendees meant we opened two bottles of each of the wines.
AJ had prepared some excellent notes for this tasting and talked briefly about the 2011 vintage and each of the individual wines.
The wines were decanted 3.5 hours before being served. There was some bottle variation between the two bottles of wine 4 - the Boillot Combettes - but I tried both bottles, as did AJ, and we thought it pretty minor.
Wines served single blind together without and then with food.
The (bracketed) scores are my assessments alone.
Flight 1 (6 notes)
White
2011 Blain-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A bouquet of acacia and other white blossoms (JK), almonds and limes (AE), and, according to one speaker, a little too much sulphur. On palate, a sweet entry, the body softly round. One speaker said that the acidity held the wine together and another said it lacked a solid core of fruit. Yellow stone fruit (AE) and peach stone (AJ) notes. One member noted a little too much alcohol on the finish. Solid scores but, overall, voted the second to least wine on the day.
No award 0, Bronze 3, Silver 17, Gold 14, WOTN 0.
White
2011 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Describing the nose, MR noted some struck match and AH referred to reduction. Some spicy oak and candied orange peel on the bouquet was also described. Mandarin with some pineapple and other exotic fruit, I thought. On palate, AH referenced some caramel sweetness, suggesting that the wine might be a Boillot Puligny. It was observed that the wine showed good balance, length and oak handling (MR and PS), with savoury undertones also being mentioned. Mineral, precise and well balanced, I thought.
No award 0, Bronze 1, Silver 16, Gold 18, WOTN 0.
White
2011 Domaine Latour-Giraud Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Speakers mentioned notes of white peach (JR), pure nectarine (CC) and other stone fruit, as well as citrus and earthy tones (TC) on the nose. The wine divided speakers. Several members noted that this cuvée was less oak-driven than many, but speakers said that the acids were focussed and lively and the wine elegant or that the wine was lacking in fruit volume (CF). MD said that the wine lacked interest and lift, but queried whether the wine was perhaps just presently too young? CC said that the wine had a lovely flow across the palate and an acidic finish, just showing that it does need more time. People mentioned notes of greengages, flinty tones, peach and strawberry, with ginger on the finish. Overall, rated the least of the wines by members.
No award 0, Bronze 8, Silver 17, Gold 10, WOTN 0.
White
2011 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
RE noted the fresher nose here, creamy with some sea breeze, blanched nuts, apple seed and cider. BSJ mentioned rubbery, struck match reduction which JC described as sulphides and minerality, with white stone fruit.. Speakers appreciated the better acidity of this wine than for previous wines. They described the Boillot's sparkling acidity (RE), excellent length and persistence (JT). JC noted what he saw as more tension, linearity and gorgeous acids in this Boillot. Overall, the third rated wine at the tasting, perhaps surprisingly rated ahead of the Mouchère (but not by me).
No award 0, Bronze 1, Silver 11, Gold 22, WOTN 0.
White
2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
This wine was controversial with a large group liking it (it was tied for WOTN) and a smaller group very unhappy with its sulphur treatment. NG and MSC described the bouquet as rich and overt, with stone fruit, lifted elements and complexity. BM described the bouquet as citrusy and floral. NG said that the palate had lovely weight and depth, elegance, richness and a long finish, but needed time to fully integrate. It was also described as persistent (BM) and fleshy with a lovely fruit core and a lovely oak and acid finish (MD). There was a lively discussion of the Roulot's sulphur profile, leading to no award and bronze votes. I had absolutely no problem with the sulphur here, which, to me, seemed appropriate and restrained.
No award 2, Bronze 2, Silver 7, Gold 21, WOTN 15 (tie).
White
2011 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
The step up in concentration and power to the Grand Cru here was obvious to all. The bouquet was described as nutty, bready, mineral and flinty. As well as being the most coloured wine, this was noted as the largest scaled and richest (but not oxidative, in my view). AS said that it was a complex wine but wondered: "where is it going?" RE however was confident that the Corton-Charlemagne had all the stuffing it needed to shape up well in five or 10 more years. A lot of power and weight here. JC noted the intensity, viscosity, concentration and tropical fruit flavours with other members again unhappy with the sulphides (hence the three bronze votes). My favourite of the wines. I could definitely see its upside..
No award 0, Bronze 3, Silver 5, Gold 26, WOTN 15 (tie). My WOTN.
Closing
Overall, these well chosen wines showed the high quality of the 2011 white Burgundy vintage. Barring premox, the better wines here will improve in 3-5 years and perhaps 10+. The tasting confirmed my view that 2011 is one of the very best recent white Burgundy vintages (you have to like racy acidity, though).
I couldn't understand a minority's negative comments about the sulphuring of some of these wines. Those objecting may have been lesser consumers of modern white Burgundies ... Anyway, personally, I was accepting of the sulphur treatment of all of the wines, which is a good insurance policy against premox.
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