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Institute of Masters of Wine Annual Champagne Tasting

Ferry Plaza Building, San Francisco, California

Tasted September 28, 2009 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 1,197 views

Introduction


This has been a great annual event for about five years, I believe. I've been attending for the past three. The event is underwritten by Moet Hennessy USA, and the Champagne producers represented donate the bottles for this tasting. One great aspect of the tasting is that you pour your own samples (with the exception this year of the vintage Rosés, since there were fewer samples of those, which were poured for us by Peter Marks, MW). There were more producers represented this year than the past two years (and more attendees too), and I was able to sample 91 different Champagnes in the three-hour period of the tasting. I found the non vintage Champagnes to be significantly better than last year, and somewhat better even than in '07, so this looks like an excellent year to buy non-vintage Champagne. The rosés, in particular, were very strong. Most of the vintage Champagnes were at least as good as prior years, although I was a little underwhelmed by a couple of the 2000s I tasted.

The producers that most impressed me with what I tasted at this event were Delbeck, Drappier, Charles Heidsieck (as always), Henriot, Krug (of course), Lanson, Bruno Paillard, Pol Roger, Ruinart, Taittinger (much more than in years past), and Vilmart. My WOTT was the '98 Dom Perignon Rosé. Also very fine were the Krug Grande Cuvee, the '97 Lanson Gold Label Brut, the 2000 Pol Roger Brut Rosé, the '98 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, the '03 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut, the '98 La Grande Dame and the 2000 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee. In general, the tasting left me very excited about the Champagnes available this year, much more so than for the last two years.

Flight 1 - L. Aubry (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. L. Aubry Fils Champagne Premier Cru Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
88 points
Light yellow color; apple, pear, yeast nose; pear, apple palate with good acidity; medium finish

Flight 2 - Besserat de Bellefon (3 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Besserat de Bellefon Champagne Cuvée des Moines Brut France, Champagne
90 points
Light yellow color; yeast, lime nose; tasty, lime, yeast, cream palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Besserat de Bellefon Champagne Cuvée des Moines Brut Rose France, Champagne
90 points
Light pink tinged yellow color; baked lemon nose; tart peach, lemon palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
2002 Besserat de Bellefon Champagne Cuvée des Moines Brut France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; reticent nose; lovely, big, tart lemon, tart lime, mineral palate; medium finish 91+ pts.

Flight 3 - H. Billiot (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Réserve France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
87 points
Light yellow color; tart lemon, green melon nose; green melon, green fruit, mineral palate; medium finish 87+ pts.

Flight 4 - Bollinger (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut France, Champagne
90 points
Light yellow color; green apple, mineral nose; tasty, tart green apple, green fruit palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
1999 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; yeasty, white chocolate, lemon nose; tasty, creamy, tart lemon, white chocolate, toast and mineral palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 5 - Chartogne-Taillet (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée Sainte Anne France, Champagne
88 points
Light yellow color; creamy citrus nose; citrus, cream palate; medium finish

Flight 6 - Gaston Chiquet (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Gaston Chiquet Champagne Premier Cru Tradition Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
87 points
Light yellow color; pear, green apple nose; ripe pear, peach palate; medium finish

Flight 7 - Delbeck (2 notes)

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Delbeck Champagne Brut Heritage France, Champagne
91 points
Light pink tinged yellow color; pear, cream nose; good tart pear, lemon, lime palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
2001 Delbeck Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
92 points
Lemon yellow color; yeasty, doughy nose; yeasty, citrus, light toast palate; medium finish

Flight 8 - Deutz (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
2002 Deutz Champagne Blanc de Blancs France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; yeast, dough nose; lemon, yeast, mineral palate; medium finish 91+ pts.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Deutz Champagne Brut Classic France, Champagne
88 points
Light yellow color; bready, apple nose; apple, pear palate; medium finish 88+ pts.

Flight 9 - Drappier (4 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Drappier Champagne Brut Nature Dosage Zero France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; baked lemon, yeast nose; tasty, tart lemon, mineral palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
N.V. Drappier Champagne Carte d'Or Brut France, Champagne
89 points
Light yellow color; tart apple nose; tart apple, baked apple palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Drappier Champagne Brut Rosé France, Champagne
91 points
Light pink color; creamy, strawberry, peach nose; tasty, tart berry, peach, apple palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
2002 Drappier Champagne Grande Sendrée France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; tight apple, toast nose; tight, tart citrus, toast palate; medium finish 91+ pts.

Flight 10 - Charles Ellner (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1999 Charles Ellner Champagne Brut Prestige France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; cream, toast, dough nose; tasty, tart lemon, mineral palate with good acidity; medium finish

Flight 11 - René Geoffroy (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Geoffroy Champagne Premier Cru Volupté France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
90 points
Light yellow color; apple, pear nose; tasty apple, pear, poached pear palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
N.V. Geoffroy Champagne Premier Cru Empreinte France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
91 points
Light yellow color; creamy apple, spice nose; tart green apple, lime, spice palate; medium finish

Flight 12 - Pierre Gimonnet (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2004 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Gastronome Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
91 points
Light yellow color; baked lemon nose; tart lemon, mineral palate with good acidity; medium finish

Flight 13 - Godmé (1 note)

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Hugues Godmé Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
90 points
Pale pink color; floral, orange nose; tart orange, lemon palate; medium finish 90+ pts.

Flight 14 - Henri Goutorbe (1 note)

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
87 points
Light yellow pink color; apple nose; tart apple, strawberry palate; short-medium finish

Flight 15 - Alfred Gratien (5 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Alfred Gratien Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
92 points
Light yellow color; very yeasty, baked lemon nose; tasty, tart lemon, baked lemon, mineral palate; medium finish 92+ pts.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Alfred Gratien Champagne Cuvée Classique Brut France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; lime nose; tasty, tart lime, green apple palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
N.V. Alfred Gratien Champagne Cuvée Paradis France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; tart peach nose; tasty, tart peach, mineral palate with good acidity; medium finish 91+ pts.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Alfred Gratien Champagne Brut Rosé France, Champagne
89 points
Pale pink color; apple, berry nose; tart berry, apple palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
1999 Alfred Gratien Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
89 points
Light yellow color; green apple, pear nose; tart pear, green fruit palate; short-medium finish

Flight 16 - Marc Hébrart (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Marc Hébrart Champagne Premier Cru Sélection Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
91 points
Light yellow color; cream, apple nose; very tasty, tart apple, lime, cream palate; medium finish

Flight 17 - Charles Heidsieck (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; yeasty, toast nose; toast, tart lemon, yeast and mineral palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Rosé Reserve France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow pink color; yeasty, tart apple nose; tasty, yeasty, tart apple palate with depth; medium finish

Flight 18 - Henriot (4 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Henriot Champagne Brut Souverain France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; lemon, cream nose; lemon, cream palate, solid effort; medium finish
White - Sparkling
1998 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; baked lemon, honeyed nose; lovely tart lemon, honeyed lemon, mineral palate; medium-plus finish
White - Sparkling
1998 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color with a greenish tinge; cream, doughy nose; tight but nice grapefruit, peach, vanilla palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
1995 Henriot Champagne Cuvée des Enchanteleurs Brut France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; mature, honeyed, treacle nose; tasty, honeyed, treacle, grapefruit, mineral palate with a sense of saltiness; medium finish 92+ pts.

Flight 19 - Krug (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée France, Champagne
93 points
Bright light yellow color; lemon, yeasty nose; rich, lemon, mineral, yeasty palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 20 - Jean Lallement (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Jean Lallement Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Réserve France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
87 points
Light yellow color; green apple, baked apple nose; apple, oxidized palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Jean Lallement Champagne Grand Cru Réserve Rosée France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
88 points
Light yelllow pink color; light strawberry, white chocolate nose; strawberry, pink grapefruit palate; short-medium finish 88+ pts.

Flight 21 - Lanson (5 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Lanson Champagne Brut Black Label France, Champagne
88 points
Light yellow color; yeast, apple nose; apple, mineral, yeast palate; short-medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Lanson Champagne Brut Rosé Rose Label France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow pink color; chalk, strawberry nose; tasty, tart strawberry, chalk, mineral palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Lanson Champagne Brut Noble Cuvée Rosé France, Champagne
91 points
Pale yellow pink color; baked apple, caramel nose; tart apple, tart strawberry, citrus palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
1997 Lanson Champagne Gold Label Brut France, Champagne
93 points
Light yellow color; yeasty, lemon, grapefruit nose; tasty, yeasty, tart lemon, mineral, chalk palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.
White - Sparkling
1998 Lanson Champagne Noble Cuvée de Lanson Brut France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; apple, yeasty nose; tasty, bracing lime, tart apple palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 22 - A. Margaine (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. A. Margaine Champagne Premier Cru Le Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
89 points
Light yellow color; green apple, lime nose; tart lime, green fruit, cream palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 23 - Jean Milan (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Jean Milan Champagne Grand Cru Special France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
91 points
Light yellow color; green melon and cream nose; green melon, lime palate; medium finish 91+ pts.

Flight 24 - Moët & Chandon (4 notes)

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Imperial Rosé France, Champagne
90 points
Light pink color; bright strawberry, cream nose; tart strawberry, cream, mineral palate; medium finish 90+ pts.
Rosé - Sparkling
1998 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rosé France, Champagne
94 points
Light yellow pink color; strawberry, floral, honey nose; tasty and deep tart strawberry, mineral, peach, pink grapefruit palate; medium-plus finish
White - Sparkling
2003 Moët & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; croissant, mineral, pear nose; tight, tart pear, mineral, lemon palate; medium finish 91+ pts.
White - Sparkling
2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
90 points
Light yellow color; apple, lime nose; surprisingly simple green apple, lime palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts.

Flight 25 - Monmarthe (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Monmarthe Champagne Coup de Coeur Extra Brut Premier Cru France, Champagne
88 points
Light yellow color; honeyed, lemon drop nose; honeyed lemon, slightly oxidized palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Monmarthe Champagne Rosé de Ludes France, Champagne
91 points
Very light pink color; creamy apple, strawberry nose; deep tart peach, mineral, lemon palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts.

Flight 26 - G. H. Mumm (4 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Mumm de Cramant France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; lemon, cream nose; tart melon, green fruit, mineral palate; medium finish 91+ pts.
White - Sparkling
N.V. G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Cordon Rouge Brut France, Champagne
89 points
Light yellow color; green apple nose; poised green apple, mineral palate; medium finish 89+ pts.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Le Rosé France, Champagne
89 points
Light pink yellow color; tangerine, orange nose; tart orange, mineral palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
1998 G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Cuvée R. Lalou Prestige France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; toasty, yeast nose; tasty, toast, lemon, mineral palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 27 - Bruno Paillard (3 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Bruno Paillard Chardonnay Champagne Blanc de Blancs Réserve Privée France, Champagne
90 points
Light yellow color; apple, lemon nose; apple, lemon, honeyed palate; medium finish 90+ pts.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée France, Champagne
89 points
Light yellow pink color; nice tart strawberry nose; tart strawberry, citrus palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
1999 Bruno Paillard Champagne Assemblage Brut France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; cream, lemon nose; yeasty, mineral, tart citrus, toast palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

Flight 28 - Perrier-Jouët (2 notes)

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Perrier-Jouët Champagne Blason Rosé France, Champagne
90 points
Pale pink color; yeast, strawberry, pear nose; lime, chalk, mineral palate; medium finish 90+ pts.
Rosé - Sparkling
2002 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Cuvée Fleur de Champagne Rosé France, Champagne
92 points
Light pinkish yellow color; pear, yeast, apple nose; tasty, tart strawberry, apple, pear palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

Flight 29 - Pierre Peters (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
91 points
Light yellow color; apple, mineral nose; green apple, lemon palate with depth; medium finish
White - Sparkling
2003 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
90 points
Light yellow color; apple, lemon nose; apple, tart lemon palate; medium finish 90+ pts.

Flight 30 - Piper-Heidsieck (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Brut France, Champagne
89 points
Light yellow color; yeasty, apple nose; creamy, tart green fruit, lime, mineral palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Brut Rosé Sauvage France, Champagne
90 points
Medium pink color; strawberry, cream nose; strawberry, lime, apple palate; medium finish 90+ pts.

Flight 31 - Louis Roederer (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Premier France, Champagne
89 points
Light yellow color; apple nose; apple, green apple palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Rosé France, Champagne
91 points
Very light yellow pink color; floral, cream, strawberry nose; strawberry, orange, Cointreau palate; medium finish

Flight 32 - Pol Roger (3 notes)

White - Sparkling
1999 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; poised yeast, lemon nose; yeasty, ripe lemon, cream palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
N.V. Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve France, Champagne
89 points
Light yellow color; apple, lime nose; lime, green apple palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
2000 Pol Roger Champagne Brut Rosé France, Champagne
93 points
Light pink color with light yellow meniscus; light strawberry, cream, yeast nose; delicious, refreshing, tart strawberry, pear palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

Flight 33 - Ruinart (3 notes)

White - Sparkling
1998 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs France, Champagne
93 points
Light yellow color; yeast, floral, lemon nose; tasty, delicate, tart lemon, floral, mineral palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
N.V. Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; light lemon nose; lemon, cream palate with good acidity; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Ruinart Champagne Brut Rosé France, Champagne
92 points
Light pink color; pink grapefruit, mineral nose; tasty, poised, tart pink grapefruit, yeast and mineral palate; medium finish

Flight 34 - Camille Saves (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Camille Savès Champagne Premier Cru Brut Carte Blanche France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
91 points
Light yellow color; good apple nose; tasty, tart apple, citrus palate; medium finish 91+ pts.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Camille Savès Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
91 points
Pale pink color; appley, strawberry nose; apple, strawberry palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts.

Flight 35 - Pehu Simonet (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Pehu Simonet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Sélection France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
90 points
Light yellow color; tight apple nose; tart apple, mineral palate; medium finish 90+ pts.

Flight 36 - Taittinger (6 notes)

White - Sparkling
1998 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
92 points
Light yellow color; baked lemon, mineral nose; tasty, tart lemon, baked lemon, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Taittinger Champagne Cuvée Prestige France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow color; lemon, apple nose; tart citrus, lemon, mineral palate; medium finish 91+ pts.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Taittinger Champagne Brut Prestige Rosé France, Champagne
91 points
Light pink color; reticent pear nose; tart strawberry, pear palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
2003 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut France, Champagne
93 points
Light pink yellow color; reticent light peach nose; very tasty, tart peach, lime palate; medium-plus finish
White - Sparkling
2002 Taittinger Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
92 points
Very light yellow color; reticent cream nose; tart apple, ripe lemon, creamy palate with depth; medium-plus finish
White - Sparkling
N.V. Taittinger Champagne Nocturne Sec France, Champagne
87 points
Bright yellow color; lemon nose; ripe lemon, lemon sherbet palate; short-medium finish

Flight 37 - Veuve Clicquot (6 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut France, Champagne
89 points
Light yellow color; tart orange nose; tart orange, citrus palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut Rosé France, Champagne
90 points
Light yellow pink color; berry, strawberry nose; tasty, focused, tart berry, baked lemon palate; medium finish 90+ pts.
Rosé - Sparkling
2002 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut Rosé Vintage France, Champagne
91 points
Light yellow-tinged pink color; tart strawberry, pear, floral nose; tart pear, strawberry palate with good acidity; medium finish 91+ pts.
White - Sparkling
2002 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut Vintage France, Champagne
90 points
Light yellow color; light peach nose with depth; tart peach, mineral, grapefruit palate; medium finish
White - Sparkling
1998 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut La Grande Dame France, Champagne
93 points
Light yellow color; reticent, creamy, peach nose; scintillating, tart peach, mineral, lemon palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Veuve Clicquot Champagne Demi-Sec France, Champagne
85 points
Light yellow color; lemon chiffon nose; sweet lemon, vanilla palate; medium finish

Flight 38 - Vilmart (3 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
92 points
Light yellow color; apple, poached pear nose; tasty, poached pear, apple, mineral palate; medium finish
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée Rubis France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
91 points
Light golden pink color; tart orange, tangerine nose; tangerine, orange, cream palate; medium finish 91+ pts.
White - Sparkling
2000 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
93 points
Light yellow color; cream, marzipan nose; pretty, lacy, citrus, cream, lime cream, honey palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

Closing

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