Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  5/4/2009 (link)

  (Perraud COGNETTES Muscadet) Muscadet Dear Friends, This is a wine we never had a chance at if not for a kismet encounter with a wine bar owner in Nantes who pulled from his personal reserve of favors to secure an allocation for us. With that... Summer is just around the corner and this is sunlight in a bottle - it is Melon de Bourgogne in all its ravishing splendor from one of the new star duets of the Loire - the Perraud brothers. When you're hot you're hot and Vincent et Stephane Perraud are as hot as any producer in Muscadet. This naturally made/hand harvested wine has been recognized far and wide in France and it was one of the more difficult items for us to acquire this year. That may seem silly for a $9.99 wine but the French take Muscadet very seriously and it's treated like any of the other fine example from the country. Price aside, this wine is worth every one of its 999 centimes and that is more than I can say about many $50 bottles I have tasted recently. As one of the top new entries from an emerging breed of "sur lie" producers, the Perraud brothers know what they are doing and they know how to do so with aplomb. The 2007 Selection des Cognettes tastes of the lime-light (hyphen intentional) - it is a citrus and light infused liquid concoction of tantalizing clarity. With a lovely nose of sea breeze, soil, lemon and evergreen, this Muscadet spills its taut mineral bath over a lithe presence that is not unlike still Champagne made from Melon de Bourgogne (albeit with only a trace of frizzante, certainly not effervescent) - for $9.99 this is another example that makes us question the entire pricing structure of wine. With accolades in the Revue du Vin de France, Gilbert Gaillard, Guide Gerbelle, the Guide Hachette and (to top it off) a Gold Medal at the Concours (CVI), this Muscadet became an instant classic upon release (at least in the eyes of the French). From mostly granite soil, planted with very old Melon vines, it's biting charm will send you back for a 3rd and 4th sip before you realize it. The key to 2007 was the delicate harness of terroir (without overdoing it) and this wine captured that essence like a conch shell whispering the sounds of refreshment - for those searching for the truth in wine, this makes the sojourn all the more inspired. Is this wine as good as my description above? Who knows, but it certainly inspired me... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for clarity, cut, filigreed fragrance and stone-filled presence. This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2007 Perraud "Selection des Cognettes" (Domain des Cognettes) Muscadet Sevre et Main sur lie (MDO/CVI) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Loire8099