90 Points

Saturday, May 12, 2012 - The most enjoyable '09 S Rhone I've had, but also the last straw - even this old-vine, usually-thoughtful cuvee contains too many over-ripe flavours. Black cherry to mulberry jam, seaweed (always present in this cuvee - v nice), raisins, honey, sausage-meat and Port in the aroma. Enters with a real rush - sweet and slippery; glycerine a go go. Serious Port in the finish; in terms of all of weight, flavour and flow. The flavours were distinctly bright, so there was faint freshness somehow built in. [Edit: a few weeks later it came to me that the 'somehow' of the fruit vitality was probably more about v low sulphur, rather than acidity.] But overall merely a bundle of laughs - nothing too serious. Half the bottle left 'til next day was much quieter, with a distinct brown-sugar note of over-ripe decline. 90-91 on day 1. 90.

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