95 Points

Friday, January 25, 2013 - One day, while chatting with La Beaugravière’s Chef Guy Jullien, I learned that I should look out for a Sancerre producer…named Vatan… whose cuvée, bottled with green wax and thinly labeled with a green band. Apparently this was to him one of the best French white wine out there…
Six months later, while visiting Le Bon Marché’s new wine shop, I saw two of these bottles, left for 35€ each. With a consumerist reflex, I quickly grabbed them and put them in my cellar.
Today, I wanted to give them a shot. So I went back to l’Huitrerie Regis, got myself some great #3 oysters and poped this beauty.
At first, the wine was really chilled. Its robe was light, and its nose was beautifully showy on classical Loire’s notes. The rest showed perfectly but extremelly silently. At this point in time, I said to myself: “well, a very good wine.” But, hey!, that doesn’t worth such a long introduction!
I let the wine get some degrees up, refine itself and show me what it got in its guts….and damn yeah, some guts it has!
Its legs, interestingly getting fatter, revealed a great soundy nose, full of apple, “branches” and finished by some apricot. It mouth went from 2 dimensional to -more than 2- multidimentionl, offering layers of aromas kicking back in my mouth with a somptuous harmony. Those components need age to build up a more structured final, and when it will…wait for something really special!
Ok…the score will look conservative as it’s “only a 95+”, but this was an awesome experience based on a simple tips given by a brilliant Chef from the Southern Rhone! (95+ points)

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