wrote:

94 Points

Thursday, October 13, 2011 - 2011 Simple Series VIII: Dinner with Mark Roberson of Goedhuis (again) (Asia Grand, Odeon Towers): A wonderful Meursault. Indeed, on a night of many good wines, this shone as one of its brightest stars. - as good as the Carillon Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet that preceded it was, this just put it in the shadows. We had another beautiful nose here. Rather richer than the Puligny, this showed touches of cream, mushrooms and ripe apple framed by a layer of yummy butterscotch scents that showed the wine's age, and then a lovely minerality that made me guess it as a Meursault Perrieres rather than a Genevrières. The pretty little flowery touches on the edges of the bouquet should have pointed me in the correct direction though, but this was all so well integrated that it was a bit difficult to pinpoint where exactly it came from. The palate was lovely. 1997 may not be the most heralded of white-wine vintages in the Cote d'Or, but this wine was showing very well at 14 years of age. It was perfectly balanced and wonderfully integrated, with little rivulets of acidity running through incredibly pure notes of ripe apple seasoned with drops of citrus lemon and drizzled with a touch more of the caramel and honey tones of a mature Burg. The wine was quite deep with some Meursault fleshiness to it, but one would not exactly call this rich - in fact, it carried its weight so effortlessly that it would almost have seemed lightweight for a Genevrières if not for the sneaky bit of persistence and presence that the wine carried. Zen-like, someone said - I thought that was a spot-on description. The finish was wonderful as well, it went on and on and on with bits of white fruit, chalk and flinty mineral, again showing in a gentle, subtle way rather than with in-your-face power. Lovely stuff - this bottle was emptied in record time. At a beautiful place now, though it could probably go on for some time yet.

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