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96 Points

Monday, September 23, 2013 - This is without a doubt my favorite Côte-Rôtie now. I like it even better than Jamet, because it seems finer with every bit as much personality. The first glass of this is one of those aromatic thrill rides where it seems that there is no potential characteristic of the grape - animal, vegetable, or mineral - that can't be found somewhere here. It's meaty (but more in an aged beefy way than the clichéd bacon fat), mealy, spicy, and earthy with an energetic pulse of pure red-berry fruit. With airtime, though, it tightens up and really shows the signature of that whole-cluster treatment, the sensation on the palate like a thicket of stems and bramble with the fruit tensile and restrained. I saved a glass's worth for the next day to see if it might reopen, and that's when it really floored me. It had all the savory goodness of that initial taste but somehow managed to crank up the fruit intensity several levels, with an inky concentration that wasn't even hinted at the day before but still red-complexioned and totally pure and composed.

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