wrote:

92 Points

Tuesday, January 22, 2013 - Martin's Birthday Bash (Gallery Hotel, Singapore): From a magnum that I brought to the party, this really surprised everyone - it was bore little or no resemblance to either Burghound's note on release, of this being an overripe, flat, Rhone-like wine, not to our perceptions of what a 2003 Burg would be like (hot, toasty, hard). In fact, when first opened, the fruit seemed a bit light as it skimmed over a real serious streak of acidity. It took an hour or so in the decanter for this to really show. When it did, it had a lovey, if rather sweet nose, ripe black cherries and blackberries, perfumed with dried flowers, spice and herb, with just the tiniest hint of sub-baked earth to remind one of the vintage. The palate though was remarkably restrained for 2003. This was nicely round and resolved, not the most complex, but very pleasant, with firm, but by no means rustic tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity forming a backdrop to ripe notes of black cherries and berries littered with pretty floral accents. Underneath this, a sub-stratum of earthy, meaty flavours, with little twists of licorice and spice wove their way into a very decent finish. This will never quite be a great wine, but it was a nicely yummy - not all that big a step behind an excellent bottle of Pousse d'Or's 1996 Caillerets, Clos de 60 Ouvrees that preceded it actually. Given the trajectory that this wine and some other 2003s have been showing, I suspect too that this would have been even better sometime in 2016-2017 than it was on the night.

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