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92 Points

Friday, October 18, 2013 - Dim Sum Club tries Fleur de Sel (Fleur de Sel, Tras Street): I thought this was very good. Served blind, it stood toe-to-toe with a rather underwhelming bottle of 1999 Salon and did not blink a eyelid. This had a very expressive nose, with some sweet oak, drips of honey, then ripe apples and cherry flesh aromas, and a touch of yeast and earth at the sides. The palate was very nicely textured, with quite a bit of power to it, showing ripe apples and subtle cherry notes that came out more when this was paired with a lovely dish of roasted duck breast. Not the subtlest of Champagnes, this was a lot of flavour packed into a soft, creamy mousse and enlivened with fresh acidity showing through brighter lemon notes. It was nicely harmonious though, so that it never came across as overbearing. Strong finish as well, with sweet kumquats along with a litte biscuity note and a lovely line of mineral. This was a nice Blanc de Noirs that went very well with food. I think this was still pretty young, still pretty tight, but there was already a nice touch of complexity. 2-3 more years would have done this bottle a world of good though - it is a pity I did not note the disgorgement date.

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