Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - Its only almost true that change is the only constant. With the departure of Paul Hobbs, it is now Philippe Melka at the helm as head winemaker at Fairchild. While his input into the 2010 vintage was minor, one can detect a subtle shift from the ways of old guard. In light of this, the sheer brilliance of these wines is a constant that truly remains unchanged.
Dark raspberries resonate as the predominant fruit on the nose. This is accented by florals, dark chocolate shavings, and a trace of blue fruit. At first, there is an herbal element I've not encountered in other vintages, but after a few hours this component dissipated and the Sigaro minerality emerged in spades. More expansive in the mouth than in years past. A bit more power and slightly grippier tannins, but this vintage still echoes the exquisite balance, sophistication, and precision that I've come to expect. The expansive finish brings forth the dirt and minerals I love about this site. And along with this, is a lingering aftertaste of freshly picked mixed berries.
I've always viewed Sigaro as an older, ever so slightly understated nobleman. The 2010 Fairchild Sigaro Cabernet more closely resembles his eldest son. Still cut from the same cloth, however he's a bit more vivacious, cunning, and powerful. And unlike his father, he's not afraid to show it. As I allowed the wine to evolve over the evening, this son began to follow in the footsteps of those that came before him. In sum, this is a killer bottle of wine! Anyone who's followed Sigaro will be delighted to add this to his or her cellar, and those new to it will discover a new love. I am intrigued how Philippe Melka will carry Larry's vision to fruition. I am forever enchanted with the Fairchild wines.
I will buy my allocation without hesitation.