93 Points

Friday, June 15, 2012 - Dinner with Monthly Group at Sichuan Dou Hua (Sichuan Dou Hua, UOB Plaza): This has been a consistently excellent Les Preuses. Unlike Les Clos or Valmur, Grand Crus that can sometimes lead one to think about the Cote d'Or in big, ripe vintages such as 2006, Les Preuses is almost always the epitome of Chablis. This bottle was no exception, from its lovely nose, where cream and white fruited notes were wed to wonderfully savoury aromas of mineral, seashell and wet earth, to its effortless, almost zen-like palate, where licks of wet stone and chalky mineral, green apples and white fruit all came together in a lovely study of understatement. The fleshiness of the 2006 vintage was there in its creamily textured depth, as was the tensile strength and energy of the terroir, with its bright, lemony acidity. Yet this was so well-integrated and brilliantly put together a wine that one blink and you would have missed that. It just went down so very easily with the food that we had. In fact, after the rather more tropical, fruit-forward showing on the last bottle, I thought that this was somehow more Chablisienne in its subtler tones. It was only on the finish were the wine was rather more expressive, tailing away in an attention grabbing streak of bittersweet minerality nestling amidst fleshy white fruit. Lovely stuff. It seems to be improving too. It will be a wonderful drink in a few years' time if pre-mox does not claim it. I am guessing peak drinking will come somewhere in three years or so.

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