90 Points

Thursday, July 14, 2011 - Wednesday Night Burgundies (Bar Boulud): Last time I had this it was a Bern's bottle in absolutely perfect shape. This one came from parts unknown and perhaps illustrates the difference between storage that's perfect and storage that's merely passable, since I don't think the four years in between them alone can account for the difference. For one thing, the Bern's bottle was still deeply colored but this one was clearing out with a frail orange tint to it, possibly the result of the absolute crapload of sediment that had precipitated out of it. Fortunately, the wine performed much better than the visual cues alone indicated, with really intense five-spice aromatics that are a totally classic representation of the terroir -- in fact probably the first wine of the lineup to have aged to the point with such pure dirt-driven aromatics minus any influence of stems, barrels, or other primary and secondary things. On the palate this was fairly gentle without the flexing Richebourg muscle my last bottle showed. But fortunately it didn't have any hints of oxidation or other signs of being over-the-hill. I'm not sure how much longer it could have held itself together, but today it was still in decent shape and still showing some character and not generic old wininess.

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