93 Points

Saturday, February 16, 2013 - NV Emilio Lustau as Almacenistas dealer (Jerez-Xérès) Sherry, Palo Cortado Vides, Jerez de Frontera, Spain.1 cask removed out of 50 from the Criadera.

Warm brown-green to this color-deficient taster, with a very pale meniscus. Has a very simple, fresh, slightly woody nose. Chewing and slurping bring out some additional freshness and sappiness, with an energetic note and some length and refreshment. Now coming on with some nice depth and nice crispness.

Decided to leave this in a decanter for a week or two, as it seems quite tight.

(Brings up a good question--are these upscale sherries actually designed to need decanter time?)

March 10: Re-tasting from scratch, room temperature: Rich but transparent green-brown. Salty caramel, sweet resinous wood, touch of smoke and minerals. Round attack and a quite 'dry', quite grapy sweet fruit, with a neat long summary on the finish. Will have to taste again a third time--have I discovered the key to unlock great sherry? (93 pts.)

Due to a question from a wine forum, I decided to re-taste this material 3/11/2013 at a cooler temperature. It was kept 24 hours in the refrigerator and tasted at 55 F (12C). The question: is the change I percieved occurring in this sherry due to a change in temperature?

Color is bright, almost identica to the brown-green described above.l; with a little bittiness of brown particles barely perceptible. There is a richness that is somewhat muted on the nose, with some caramel and a little tropical noble wood; the palate is precise, almost pinpoint acidity flavoring the grapy dry fruitiness, underlalin by subtle wood notes and savory tarry spice notes. Finish is an intense, focused summary, with a delightful point of energy focused on the tip of the tongue. 93 coming out of the refrigerator. Almost identical but with a touch better focus and struccture on the cooloer sample. Perhaps a half-point difference at most.

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