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93 Points

Wednesday, September 3, 2014 - Vosne-Romanee Grand Crus for Michael and Peter's Birthdays (Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck, Paragon): A very different animal from the three older wines that preceded it – this was at once a more masculine, yet lighter-bodied expression of the vineyard. Still, it was a very good wine in its own right. The nose felt a bit grumpy when compared to the exuberant flower and spice bouquets of the other wines. This was marked as much by funk, sous bois notes as it was by its sweeter scents of sappy berries and maraschino cherries ringed with some wilting florals and a gentle spiciness. It was on the palate where the wine showed its strength though. It was wonderfully integrated, and there was such a nice purity about it, with ringingly clear notes of black cherries and dark berries seamlessly woven together with spice and earth, flowers and orange peel, and a little streak of bittersweet mineral. I thought this was just a touch lighter than its flight mates – more about clarity and minerality than fruit and flowers maybe. Saying that though, there was clearly Grand Cru depth and breadth here, all accompanied by a great spine of bright, juicy acidity and a strong, almost stern structure leading into a fine finish laced with lots of spice and a long, stony tail. Very good indeed, and there is room for improvement too. It is still rather tight though, especially at the back-end. I think it may need 6-8 more years before peak. Minerally, lighter than others, but still Grand Cru weight.

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