wrote:

93 Points

Sunday, November 29, 2009 - Red wine shortage at special family meal led to be grabbing a cool bottle of this. Splashed into a decanter it honked out a weird gust of fudge. Thereafter it was all magic. The temperature made it inexpressive and the circumstances meant I wasn’t concentrating, but it was boring into my subconscious, giving me a chance of saying something today about this truly great wine. Tremendous density lends a compact velvet texture, balanced by innate vitality. A singular flavour that spreads and caresses. Right now that singularity is a meld of at least: purple cherries and plums, dark raspberry, fig, olive, earth, distant smoke and northern-Rhone-style Syrah bacon fat. Crucially the fruit component isn’t loud or over-sweet; there’s no over-ripeness, just like the wine isn’t ridiculously full-bodied. No natural object has to be bigger to be more beautiful; this has exquisite balance. Restrained, integrated and pure there’s an ultra-rare feel of nobility directly aligned with top drawer Grand Cru Burgundy. Age, temperature and attention meant I got c93 pts of pleasure out of it; but really I’m sensing a potential 96-98 pt wine here. Therefore, cost aside, I’d ideally like to drink it again immediately, when it can be served/prepared with more respect.

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