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94 Points

Wednesday, April 30, 2014 - 1998 Burgundy Grand Cru Dinner (Cheng Hu Tien, Keong Saik Road, Singapore): In a word - superlative. Like the Fourrier Clos St Jacques that preceded it, this was quite clearly Grand Cru quality. In fact, as much as I loved the Fourrier, I found this far stronger – it was every bit as charming, but was a much more complete wine. We had another lovely nose here, with deep wafts of dark cherries and berries and dried flowers laced with lots of fragrant spices, with cloves at the forefront, and then a touch of dried earth – a heady mix of the masculine and feminine, all making for a tremendous bouquet. The palate was very fine indeed. It had amazing finesse, with pure flavours of red cherries and berries and sour plums cloaked with a light layer of super-fine tannins and just pitch perfect balance lent by lovely, bright acidity. Like the nose, there was this beguiling femininity and elegance on the palate wed to a more masculine tones, with a savoury, slightly meaty counterpoint and a great undercurrant of mineral and spice stretching into a strong, super-long finish. Boy this was great. A fantastic wine just starting to show its chops – give it 5 years or so in the bottle, and it will be even better.

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