92 Points

Thursday, February 16, 2012 - 19 pabv. $45/750 ml; Arrow Wines, Centerville, OH. Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA, Importer. 'Aged in Oak until Maturity'.

T-cork closure. Green-pink tawny hue.

Takes a moment for an odd bottle funk to blow off. Sweet, smoky-stony with hint of roast walnut and caramelized fruit.

Beautiful juicy soaring acidity; nice energetic liquid texture, approximately Verdelho-level sweetness, with a veal consomme-like finish. More development expected in the next few weeks after opening.

Drink now through lifetime of cork, estimated 25 years (2037). Worth the tariff, especially given the way Madeira can be enjoyed long after opening.

(92 pts.)

Second day: Worcestershire sauce, cold fruit soup, floral, over previously-noted caramel notes with excellent sweet-acid balance. Fresh-apple finish. Dry enough for table use and appetizing enough for sipping on its own.

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