Medium ruby with some amber. A lot of earth, sous bois on the nose. Light to medium body. More of an elegant style. Some red fruits still on the palate, but not a lot of depth to the wine. Bright acid finish. Pleasant but not great. May get a bit better with some more cellar time.
The 1996 La Pousse d’Or Volnay ‘En Caillerets’ has enough shit on the nose to satisfy Anthony Hanson, it doesn’t dominate but there’s ‘merde’ there. There are also notes of chestnut, moss and earth. In the mouth it is perhaps a little skinny but it feels quite ‘old school’ with all sorts of savoury flavours that work in well with the tart cherry and cranberry fruits. As the wine breathes there are more perfumed, ethereal notes.
In a place now where it could be overlooked, but get some air into the wine, match it with some slightly fatty protein and cuddle up to it over an hour or two and you’ll get where its coming from. Pure earthy nose flecked with iron, dried flowers and a sweet vinous perfume. It is relatively compact and linear with built around a rigid mineral spine. The 96’s don’t yet possess a sweet heart rather the fruit fans out from the spine, maintaining the linear nature of the wine but buffering the high acidity with a gently sweet sheath of glycerol. This is a wine that is far from ready but was quite ethereal.