2009 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Granite de Clisson
Last edited on 10/1/2012 by rarewineman
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Truth be told, we didn’t even know this wine existed until a few weeks ago. Despite our enthusiasm for Marc Olivier’s incredible work with Muscadet (and our customers’ ever increasing interest), we always thought his ‘Gras Moutons’ was the top of the line at the domaine. We were wrong and certainly aren’t complaining. Oliver’s ‘Granite de Clisson’ is an outlier just like the ‘Gras Moutons’ in that the vineyard rests on a bed of pure granite (most of the region is schist), a terroir that always has Marc’s interest peaked. This is from a special 60-90 year old parcel that spends two years on its lees developing its many layers of pungent minerality and finesse, and like we’ve said before this comes together like the best of white wine in any region of France (and with cellar potential to boot). Granite de Clisson, similarly to Champagne millésimes, is only made in great Muscadet vintages and it didn’t get much better than the warm mild summer of 2009 (this our clients already know from the 20+ cases of Gras Moutons that they burned through last year). And for what it’s worth, there’s plenty of press for how great the last incarnation was with the 2007 vintage and the 2009 is even better. More finesse, greater focus, and pin-point preciscion that will have all the old-school palates singing. We have a blast offering Muscadet and along with Luneau Papin’s ‘Terre de Pierre’ (we have a few cases of the ’09 of this left at the same price), this wine takes things up a notch. Great juice at a price that can be drunk in quantity!
Granit de Clisson is a great young bottle of Muscadet. The bouquet is deep and superb, as it offers up a complex mélange of gentle leesy tones, wet stones, lemon, grapefruit and a distinctly saline topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full, crisp and laser-like in its focus, with a rock solid core of fruit, bright, tensile acids and superb length and grip on the snappy finish. Just a stellar bottle. Ollivier rendered from 90 year old vines and the 2005 vintage his first dedicated and so-labeled Granite de Clisson bottling (though this same granitic formation has always constituted a significant part of his property), and this 2007 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Granite de Clisson is one of the richest and most intriguing Muscadets I have been privileged to taste. A remarkable, high-toned nose of pear, peach, almond extract, basswood (a.k.a. linden, a.k.a. tillieul), and pungent citrus oils and buckwheat leads to a palate of subtly oily texture; expansive richness and northerly orchard fruit ripeness unexpected from Muscadet; as well as deep saline, and crustacean minerality. Piquant nuttiness, sizzling citrus oil, and licks of salt offer counterpoint to the fruit in a finish of vibratory intensity. This spent 24 months on the lees and in the course of two summers during which Ollivier says he fearlessly let the temperature rise clearly picked up an aspect of complexity that might remind some tasters of the Jura or of maturing Champagne. This astonishing wine, not to mention value will be worth following for at least 3-4 more years, and probably longer.”