Producer Article

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

Last edited on 7/29/2010 by rarewineman
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Producer note: Pierre Yves Colin now focuses full time on the tiny négociant operation he began in 2001. He has also taken a small portion of his future inheritance and now exploits 4 ha. His present approach focuses on microscopic quantities of the finest raw materials that he can buy. They are bought in the form of must and generally in only one or two barrel lots. Colin describes 2006 as a "vintage where there was no problem with rot provided that you treated with the right treatment at the right times. The storm on September 16th unleashed a huge wave of rot that completely decimated certain vineyards within 3 days if you hadn't treated. We began picking on the 19th and brought in a very clean crop and with such good sugars that nothing was chaptalized. It was obvious from the very beginning that 2006 would be a very rich vintage and thus I did no lees stirring at all. I also moved 80% of my wine to 350 liter barrels, which I am now persuaded helps not only with the overall sense of elegance but the wood is less obvious when the wines are young. Speaking of which, I felt even in 350 liter barrels, I felt that the '06s were picking up the wood faster than I was happy with so in August I racked everything into stainless steel tanks to let them finish the élevage. Overall, the '06s are pretty and will offer much pleasure young and should age over the medium term." Note that a few wines displayed a hint of sulfur as they had literally just been bottled within one week of my late February visit. (Atherton Imports, Atherton, CA and Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; A&B Vintners and Richards-Walford, UK).

We can’t say enough good things about Pierre Yves Colin-Morey. By far our best visit last November, his 2008s are just as serious as his ’07 vintage, which is to say amongst the very best wines produced throughout the entire Cote. We are fortunate enough to be one of the first retailers years ago to catch onto these wines and not only receive first priority and pricing, we also very possibly receive the most extensive allocation in the world. Seeing as these wines are made in miniscule quantities (only 1 or 2 barrels for many appellations), this is a position we are quite thankful for to say the least. It is clear that the thought and attention put into each bottle is startling, and after spending a couple hours tasting in his small cellar we were taken aback by not only the quality of every wine tasted, but also how Pierre-Yves’ calm and enthusiastic demeanor and acute insight seem to be the foundation of every wine in the cellar. From the use of irregular slightly larger barrels to impart less oak influence, strict bottling producers to combat any risk of pre-oxidation, somewhat early harvests dates that helped guard acidity (retrospectively a great and noticeable decision) and even his relationships throughout Burgundy where he stresses diplomacy and trust – multiple ingenuities point to the success in bottle. We found these wines impeccably balanced, terroir driven and mineral based, with charming layers of buffering fruit that are pinned down in structure begging for some time in the cellar. We tasted through the cellar’s entire range, and these are our favorite wines (the usual suspects are of course present). The premier cru wines taste like serious grand crus, and the grand crus are amongst the immortals. These are as serious as White Burgundy gets, and at the best prices to be found in the US. With fresh Burghound scores and prices lower than when first released, these bottles are not to miss and receive our vote as best in show!
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