Wine Article

2010 Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Blanc Reserve En Bonbonne

Last edited on 2/16/2013 by jblack323
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From the winery:
I have written in various places about the inspiration to age wine in demijohns/carboys/bonbonnes. Some of it has come from my fascination with oxidation/reduction chemistry, an aspect of wine art/science not well understood and its importance greatly unappreciated. Years ago, as a young pup I tasted wine from carboy with Dan Wheeler of Nicasio Cellars in his do-it-yourself-hand-dug cave in Soquel, and was astonished at how youthful were the wines, twenty plus years later, almost as if they had been placed in suspended animation. At about the same time, I also happened to taste the wines from Emidio Pepe in Abruzzo, who also aged his product in demijohns, likewise evincing extraordinary youthfulness and vitality.
We did some small encouraging experiments years ago, then more or less forgot about them until relatively recently, at which point we began the carboy ageing project with Cigare. It wasn't until '09 that it dooned on me that perhaps there were even more interesting things to discover with the white. The '10 Cigare Blanc Reserve, our second vintage of this wine, is absolutely amazing, an advance over the '09. To refresh everyone's memory, this wine is more or less the same blend as our standard issue Cigare Blanc, apart from the fact that we've allowed it to undergo malolactic fermentation, and at that point, we gave it a light SO2 addition, racked it to glass demijohn (bonbonne), where it reposed for a year and a half, getting anaerobically stirred more or less fortnightly.
The wine derives entirely from the Beeswax Vineyard, located at the mouth of the Arroyo Seco, is farmed biodynamically and produced according to biodynamic specifications (very easy on the extraneous additions).
I've had the pleasure of tasting this wine over the last year, and what is most remarkable about it is that every time I taste it, it gets younger and younger! The wine was not filtered, and therefore is partly cloudy, though lately, it is curiously, getting brighter and brighter. The wine has a rich, unctuous texture, despite its modest (12ish%) alcohol, as well as possesses the most satisfying savoriness. In the nose, there is a wonderful suggestion of hazelnuts (hmm, white Burgundy, anyone?), as well as a beautiful fragrance of wintergreen and a wine-like pear. A great gastronomy wine, one that will perfectly suit rich, cream-based dishes.

Vital Statistics
Blend: 56% roussanne, 44% grenache blanc (Certified Biodymaic)
Production: 498 cases
TA: 6.2 g/L
pH: 3.62
Appelation: Arroyo Seco
ABV: 12.4%
Serving Temperature: 50-55 degrees F
Optimal drinkability: Now-2000
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