Domaine Rémi Jobard
Last edited on 9/27/2011 by tooch
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There have been a lot of changes at this domaine in the last ten or fifteen years, each another small step to the top of the quality tree. Rémi and his father have always done quite a lot of cordon pruning (in such a way as to limit initial yields enough that bud-thinning and green harvesting are not necessary), and this has been extended over the entire vineyard. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The entire domaine is certified organic from 2008. Rémi says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients. Remi has two vast new presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and is sure that this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour. One of the absolutely top domaines of the Côte de Beaune, and still at prices that are well, well below his qualitative equivalents.
Remi Jobard is the "intelligent and dynamic son" of Charles Jobard, the brother of Francois, and this domaine, now being run by Remi "is truly a family run operation, with Remi’s mother doing all the bottling by hand"… that is indeed an " up and coming estate". With the scores in the low 90s from The Wine Advocate, and up to 94 points in The Wine Spectator, and rave reviews in the French press, the secret is now definitely out on Remi Jobard. And why not, when he makes such delicious expressions from such great Meursault parcels that too often these days are not always producing the exciting wines that can potentially be made? In fact, when one starts tasting through his offerings, it is amazing just how great his Bourgogne is - it tastes like a really excellent Meursault. Then he makes three sensational and unique Meursaults from three different lieu dits: the Sous la Velle is rich, plump, and long with lovely balance; the En Luraule (a parcel adjoining Premier Cru Goutte D’Or and resembles that Cru) - very rich and golden buttery (thus Goutte D’Or) - while the Chevalieres from 55+ year old vines is very structured, firm, and complex, benefiting from extra time in bottle. The three Premier Crus are also exceptional for their expressiveness, but add to this their weight and character. The Poruzots is the most opulent and forward, with a real wallop of unctuous, juicy Meursault fruit. The parcel they own is situated at the top, adjoining Genevrieres. The Genevrieres parcel of Jobard is very old vines and here Jobard makes his most minerally, terroir-filled Meursault; but never at the expense of richness and depth. Finally, the Charmes, presents a culmination, it seems, a synthesis of all the strong points of all his other wines in a package of near pure perfection. To capture all of the texture and nuance Remi now also bottles all of his wines without filtration sixteen months after vintage. There is no telling how great his domaine can become. “Less known than that of his brother Francois, the domaine of Charles Jobard, situated on the same terroirs, has seen during the last two years a formidable progression thanks to the new generation. Whereas before the wines tended to lack fatness and purity, they have regained, particularly in 1994 (put into commercialization in 1996) the allure which one expects in a great Meursault – with noble aromas of honey, citrus and nuts, as well as imposing body. An address to be followed.” - Le Classement, 1999 Revue du Vin de France