Vineyard Article

Burgundy lovers enjoy debating the merits of vineyards almost as much as they savor the wines themselves. A favorite topic of conversation? Premier cru vineyards that in the right hands produce wines at grand cru quality.
For white wines on the Côte de Beaune, the premier cru Meursault Perrières is widely considered to be of grand cru quality. In Chablis, there’s one long-established premier cru vineyard that consistently towers above the rest: Montée de Tonnerre.
If this vineyard does not quite reach the level of the region’s grand crus in depth and sheer palate presence, it often does in aromatic complexity and class. In a perfect classification system, it would be ranked between premier and grand cru. Why should you care? In a word: value. Because Chablis usually is significantly cheaper than white Burgundy from the Côte de Beaune in the first place, the best examples of Montée de Tonnerre can offer remarkable quality/price rapport. If Chablis is the insider’s white Burgundy, then Montée de Tonnerre is the insider’s Chablis premier cru.

A look at the map quickly explains why. Montée de Tonnerre is situated just to the southeast of the unbroken strip of Chablis grand crus on the right bank of the river Serein

Montée Tonnerre is, in many experts’ minds, an ‘honorary’ Grand Cru—or, at the very least, as close as Premier Cru get to that top tier. The site picks up where the famed row of Grand Crus leaves off, sharing similar expositions (the “Blanchots” Grand Cru is literally across the street). Montée de Tonnerre wraps around a hillside and is traditionally broken up into three sections, or lieu-dits: “Pied d’Aloup” (at the top of the slope, facing east); “Chapelot” (more south-facing); and “Côte de Brechain” (the western slopes).

It enjoys a similar geographic profile, rich in the same Kimmeridgian limestoney chalk that makes the grand crus some of the world’s most cerebral, complex and distinctive examples of chardonnay. With its brisk citrus character, floral lift and incisive minerality, Montée de Tonnerre is wonderfully aromatic and penetrating in its youth, typically coming into greater harmony and putting on weight with five to ten years of bottle age.

Montée de Tonnerre - Chapelot, Les Chapelots, Pied d’Aloup, Sous Pied d’Aloup, Côte de Bréchain

About Chablis Pied d'Aloup Wine

Pied d'Aloup is a Premier Cru climat in Chablis, overlooking the town of Chablis itself. This small vineyard site – while a Premier Cru in its own right – is also a part of the larger Montee de Tonnerre Premier Cru climat. As such, most of the Chardonnay grapes grown in the climat go into Montee de Tonnerre Premier Cru wines, providing freshness and minerality to the blend.

The vineyard is located at the top of the hill, sitting on the steep, southeast-facing slopes above the Chapelot vineyard, also used in Montee de Tonnerre blends. The Chablis Grand Cru hill is just a short way away to the north, and Pied d'Aloup shares some of its geographical characteristics, most notably the white, chalky soils.

Chablis Pied d'Aloup
© Wine-Searcher
The Kimmeridgian soils found in Pied d'Aloup (and throughout Chablis) are well suited to viticulture, as their high levels of limestone and clay help to impart minerality to the grapes. The subsoil was deposited by an ancient sea that once covered northern France, and many tiny marine fossils have been found in the vineyards. The soils are less stony here than in other Premier Cru sites, aligning Pied d'Aloup more closely to the Grand Cru sites, and in particular Blanchot.

The southeast exposure in Pied d'Aloup means that vines receive excellent sunlight during the growing season, helping to temper the cool Burgundian climate. However, the mesoclimate in this part of the Montee de Tonnerre vineyard is slightly cooler (given its higher elevation) and, as such, the grapes have more austerity than those from lower on the slope. When blended with riper grapes from the Chapelot vineyard below, they make a well-balanced Montee de Tonnerre Premier Cru wine.

Exact position on weinlagen.info