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  • 1982 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

    From 750ml. Decanted 90 mins and served at Pied a Terre, London. Level into neck and perfect cork. Colour was still bright, solid brick red, right out to the rim. Looked 15 years old not 30. Nose was an explosion of smoke, earth, fruit and tobacco leaf. Entrancing and inviting and a good lead into the palate.

    To taste this was vibrant, bursting with crunchy frut and complex. Long, long finish and an intensity and balance you only get with great bottles. Great balance of acidity and elegance. What struck me was how youthful this wine was, it was almost too young to drink although the tannins have integrated and receded, I think a well stored bottle like this is just warming up.

    It has another 20 years in the cellar and it will only get better. For once, a wine that fully justifies its hype but with hindsight I'd have opened it in it's 50th birthday. Great wine, but on the way up. Decant for as long as you can wait.

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  • 2000 Château La Croix de Grezard

    Lean and stern. Drink up.

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  • 1985 Château Mouton Rothschild

    From 1500ml and served at the Ledbury in London. Bottle in excellent condition with level still IN. Opened for 1 hour then poured with no decant. Deep brick red with little sign of age. Nose was a lovely, intense Pauillac with an immediate hit of cassis, then cedar and leather. A very classy and inviting nose. The palate was lovely and fresh still, with supreme elegance and balance. Lots of black fruit, some earth and game. Good, persistent finish with beautifully integrated tannins. Nice evolution in the glass.

    This is in a great place right now and a far more fruit-driven than the previous magnum of the same wine I had last year. Has the hallmak first-growth elegance and balance, wrapped up in a very drinkable package. Proof that 1985 vintage is still capable of serving up something special at 28 years of age.

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