In a nice in-between place. Youthfull slithery fat is shed; mature depth and salty pungency is not yet apparent. Shows almost like a crisp Scharzhofberger Riesling with no residual sugar: the same sense of pure mountain brook water tinted with slatey minerality. A bottle like this always makes me think of the water the Ents give Pippen an Merry to drink in the Lord of the Rings, which makes them grow in stature and their hair curl. I will try to let my remaining bottles go a bit longer now before diving in again.
This wine is clean and, with air, at cool room temperature, nicely intense, showing iodine and seaweed, along with plenty of acidity. Doesn't wow, however, and it's hard to understand the $100+ price tag I see attached in the market today. Perhaps it needs more time to reveal its glory.
Becoming approachable. The wine's texture is much, much more open-knit and plump than in its early years. Ample tannins, but not excessive or intrusive. Bit of Pernand hauteur and gout de terroir. Aromatics were such as to perfume the air several feet away, yet flavors and aromatics in the mouth were muted. Excellent wine, but probably showing better in another few years.