In a nice in-between place. Youthfull slithery fat is shed; mature depth and salty pungency is not yet apparent. Shows almost like a crisp Scharzhofberger Riesling with no residual sugar: the same sense of pure mountain brook water tinted with slatey minerality. A bottle like this always makes me think of the water the Ents give Pippen an Merry to drink in the Lord of the Rings, which makes them grow in stature and their hair curl. I will try to let my remaining bottles go a bit longer now before diving in again.
The usual Clos de Briords character: rainwater purity, minerality and citrusy fruit. A touch of oxidation suggests that this might not make it in the long haul, but perhaps this cork was particularly suspect.
Light yellow in the glass; a hint of lime & salinity on the nose.
Refreshing and brisk on the palate - in a nice place right now, but I don't see any indication that this isn't capable of another decade in the cellar (although whether it will last that long in MY cellar is another question altogether).
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(Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Clos des Briords) As In the glass this wine has a pale yet shimmering hue, and aromatically this is an absolute classic, and immediately puts to bed any notion that this vintage - despite any concerns I may have raised in my Loire 2009 report - might yield only atypical, undrinkable, soft and fuzzy wines. There is salt-brushed fruit, quite rich yet still so evocatively Muscadet, bright and minerally, with scents of lemon, lime and green herbs. There is a similar purity on the palate, which has an immediate confidence, bright and increasingly defined and incisive with subsequent mouthfuls. The acidity has a forthright and crunchy style, with great minerality; it keeps a wonderfully pure and focused style, despite it showing richness and a fine weight in keeping with the warmer vintage, although it is by no means fleshy or over-the-top, and it all culminates in a delectably bitter finish. This is brilliant wine - I love it!
(Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Clos des Briords) From old vines, at least 80 years of age, in a 3-hectare plot with a granite terroir. The nose here is very open and expressive, the palate attractive with plenty of good fruit and a fresh and vigorous style. Nicely balanced. Hugely superior to the two domaine wine samples tasted above.
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