Ruby/garnet robe and narrow garnet rim. Mature fruits, cassis and an interesting liquorice and earthy note. I really enjoyed the palate: good structure, quite powerful and yet balanced by a maturing elegance, still plenty of backbone here. I tried it alongside a rather disjointed, out of sorts 1996 and a lovely 1994, which had those wonderful notes of cedar and graphite, and plenty of grip. I'm somewhat smitten by Monsieur Tesseron, an honourable and savvy man, and these older vintages were a joy to sample today.
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(Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac) Partial green-harvesting. Richly styled. Certainly appealing Bordeaux maturity on the nose, complexity too, with some intriguing highlights coming in at the side. There is still a good layer of fruit here, sweet and dense, with raspberry and violet floral elements too, Surprisingly for such a warm vintage there are green elements too, green peppercorn. But also fleeting flashes of fried fish (unusual!), more typical tea leaves, but on the whole quite classic, showing the flesh and richness but not the over-ripeness or roasted character of the vintage. Good style on the palate, none of the more unusual elements here. Lots of tannic structure still, still not ready - by a long way. Good substance, quite coolly styled, still rather firm and reserved, structured and slightly reticent left bank style. Lots of grip in the finish. Good length, touch peppery here, but certainly good.
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