Soft, red garden fruit, good purity as usual. Quite lean and also with a vegetal streak that I haven't found before in this wine. A nice drink but not the same verve and weight as usual for this bottling from Jean Marc Morey. With the Hansen family in Canazei.
2004 Red Burgundies (Brooklyn): Already shows some savory tertiary aromatics. Rich on the palate with fairly concentrated fruit sweetened up by some chocolate oak-barrel sweetness - actually, this is probably the only wine in the lineup that I think showed too much oak. Even so, it's remarkable tender and supple on the palate, without really any noticeable tannin at all to coarsen it (something I found myself noting here but which also turned out to be true of almost every wine to come).
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