I'll confess that I've been telling people I won't buy 2003 whites despite not having tasted them myself. So I thought I'd gamble on one of my favorite whites year in and year out - and one that usually matures on the early side for a grand cru. Well, guess what: I won't be buying any 2003 whites. Initially the wine was completely hopeless - not quite as flabby as I imagined in this hot vintage, but still lacking in definition and, just as importantly, missing the mineral streak so vital to this wine. After about four hours in the decanter, this finally began to show its breed and class, and a hint of minerality. As it turns out, this is rather pretty juice; but without the usual structure and definition, it is ultimately not fully satsifying. And it's not going to get any better, as it lacks density as well and is not built to age. So in case you missed it: avoid the 2003 whites.
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